Healthy Happy Dog Blog

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2011-05-31T21:25:00.000-06:00

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Digital dogs: finding reliable, accurate and useful information online

2011-04-06T15:49:00.000-06:00

Your dog will be healthier and happier if you learn more about dogs.

Hugo, Wombat, Lisa, Abbey and Willie run and play.

The internet is an awesome resource for dog owners – between web sites, Facebook, Twitter and blogs, you can find anything and everything dog-ish. That's the good part. However, because anyone can post their stuff, the difficult part is separating good advice from bad. Here are my favourite go-to sources.

If you're starting with a fresh slate – thinking about getting a new puppy, check out Dr. Ian Dunbar's two free e-books. They're THE BEST! To set your new dog up for success, read both Before you get your puppy and After you get your puppy.

Once you've done your homework and are ready to choose your new puppy, check out the Regina Humane Society, Bright Eyes Dog Rescue and Petfinder. You'll find dogs of all shapes, sizes, ages and breeds – guaranteed there's one out there matching your needs.

If you're having “trouble” with your dog, this one is for you. Sue Ailsby is a local trainer who is known internationally for her effective positive training methods. Her new book is just coming out. A lot of her content is available at her web site. The section I particularly like is an intervention for a “bad dog”. I say it that way because I don't believe there are bad dogs – only dogs who don't yet know what their humans expect of them.

Got a canine medical question, check out the Merck Veterinary Manual. If you're interested in some animal medical world controversy, PetMD is a unique blogging site with posts written by veterinarians. And when you see anything by Dr. Sophie Yin it's going to be good.

Twitter is awesome. I follow some really neat people and stay on top of the breaking canine trends. It's just a little tougher to separate out the good from the bad.

Do you have a favourite online resource? Let us know about it. It might become one of our new favourites too.

My dog never gets out – right! Help your pets find their way home.

2011-03-14T13:50:00.005-06:00

Three days. That's the amount of time your lost dog has before he or she is legally someone else's property. Bet you didn't know that. The provincial Animal Protection Act and City of Regina by-laws are very clear about ownership. While it seems a little harsh, it makes sure that animals are cared for rather than homeless.

Time and time again animal shelters hear the same story, “I didn't get a license because my dog or cat never gets out.” All it takes is once, and you've got a problem. That's why identification is so important – it's your pets best chance of finding their way back home. In Regina it also increases the number of days that your pet is your property from three to 10. There are lots of identification options with lots of pros and cons, so it's best for your pets to wear a bunch:

Tattoos - anyone can see that they're dealing with an owned dog. However, over time, they become difficult to read. And, if you've got a “used” dog who has already been tattooed, contact the veterinary clinic who did the original tattoo so they can update their files with your contact information.

Microchips are very permanent. However, they must be read using a scanner so they're not accessible for Joe Public to easily check. As well, some times the chip travels from the insertion point to other parts of the body, so they can be missed even by those who regularly use the scanners.

City licenses – typically connect your dog with the their most current owner contact information. However, they can fall off, so it's important to make sure they're tightly hooked to the collar. As a side benefit, they often they include a “get out of jail free card” saving you lots of money if your pet gets out and turns up a shelter.

Store-bought ID tags that contain name and contact numbers are great for people who live in areas without licensing bylaws like me. They're easy to read by anyone.

ID collars – because your dog's name and your phone number are embroidered onto the collar, they're easy to read. (Using a sharpie marker on a plain collar works too.) However, the collars themselves can fall off especially if your dog looses weight, or if it's loose.

Rabies tags – because this vaccine is highly controlled, this extra tag can lead your dog back home.

You can be proactive by keeping a file on each pet that contains all of their information - identification markings, health records, photographs, etc. A more high-tech option is to register your pets in advance on PetLynx. They connect lost and found dogs to owners, animal shelters, municipal animal services, and others. By creating a profile for each of your pets in advance, should they ever become lost, you won't waste time searching for their vital information and photos, you can simply change their status to lost and be connected to matching found dogs. They offer a free seven day trial, and have different upgrade packages.

If you lose your pet, be proactive – quickly! Because animals roam, it's important to contact your local and surrounding area humane societies and municipalities. By having your pets wear lots of identification, checking in with municipalities, and doing your own lost dog posting, you're more likely to help your pet come back home.

The $1,600 Dieffenbachia plant: helping your pet avoid poisonous plants

2011-01-28T12:02:00.008-06:00

Blossom is a very, very lucky girl. One day while home alone, she decided to graze on some leafy greens. Unfortunately, her choice was the toxic Diefenbachia plant. After work, her mom noticed a drooling, wheezing, non-responsive dog with blue hazing over her eyes (she said she looked like a fish does before it dies!), so she rushed Blossom off to her veterinarian. $1,600 later, Blossom was fine, and plant simply had a good pruning.

The toxic Diefenbachia plant before Blossom ate it

When dogs eat this type of plant, their esophagus swells and they suffocate to death. Unfortunately, the German shepherd and black lab, who were at the same clinic earlier ate only two leaves from similar plants. Both died.

When you live with pets and plants, toxicity should be top of mind because lots of house and garden plants are toxic to pets. I love dogs, and plants. As a University of Saskatchewan Prairie Horticulture Certificate program graduate, my tip for you is that when you live with pets and bring plants into your life, be cautious.

Here's what being cautious looks like. I live on an acreage and can always use more plants. Last summer, a friend offered me some perennial Solomon's seal plants. Right away, I accepted. My next move was to figure out this plant. I Googled it to find out its Latin name, which is Polygonatum, and quickly discovered that it's toxic to dogs, which made my planting location really easy – I would bring it in, but keep in a dog-free area of my yard.

Because many plants are location-specific - eg. what we grow in Saskatchewan is different than what is grown in California - there's no one “go-to” source for information about plant/pet toxicity. Most plants have at least two names, and more than likely many names. For example, Saskatchewanians are very proud of our saskatoon berry, which is just one of its “common names”. However, the “Latin name” for this plant is Amelanchier alifolia, and other common names for exactly the same plant are serviceberry, sarvice berry, Juneberry and shadebush. After doing the research, I wouldn't let my dogs eat Saskatoons or chew on the bush. According to the Government of Canada “The shrub has an hydrogen cyanide (HCN) potential high enough to kill cattle and mule deer. Mule deer that ingested 1 kg of fresh weight per day were poisoned and died within 24 h of the appearance of clinical signs”.

Know and research the common and Latin names of plants your dog has access to - this goes for both indoor house plants and outdoor petscaping. When it doubt, err on the side of caution.Here are some additional resources to help you out:

Government of Canada

Pet Poison Helpline

ASPCA Poison Control Centre

Doggie dental hygiene: their teeth are in your hands

2010-12-29T11:32:00.004-06:00

Eli is 10 years old and has only one tooth. This little guy was recently adopted by a Regina family, and he obviously had bad teeth. Periodontal (gum disease) is one of the most common dog diseases, and is often preventable.

Tartar and plaque build up, then the gums recede, and infection starts. It’s nasty. Serious dental issues seem to be more common in small dogs than large. It’s often diet related – created by a soft food diet . . . think Cesar supplemented with lots of soft treats. Although they like the taste, the dog’s teeth get coated with food without ever getting a good scrubbing. Soft food is ok, but dogs need crunchy stuff too. (I know they get this stuff because their people love them, but loving them through food can hurt them.)

Unfortunately we see a lot of dogs with dental issues.

What you’ll notice with gum disease is nasty mouth odour when things get infected, and the cost of dental cleanings and extractions. A lot of people pay hundreds and thousands of dollars to fix the problem. However, some people chose not to fix it – that’s mean. I don’t know about you, but I’ve had dental infections, and they hurt – a lot. I can’t imagine the pain that some of these dogs live with. (Dr. Paddy Khuly, a veterinarian blogger, suggests that people who chose not to fix their dog’s mouth infections otherwise known as medical neglect should be charged with animal cruelty. Think about that.) Unfortunately, if the problem isn’t treated early, older dogs may have to suffer in pain for the reminder of their lives because using anesthetic on older dogs can be deadly.

Unless it’s genetic or caused by accident, so many dental problems are preventable. While tooth brushing is an option, I don’t know of many who make the effort to do it. Good on you if you do. Providing your dog with crunchy stuff is a good alternative. The Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) awards a registered seal of approval for products that are clinically proven to control plaque and tartar. Frankly, everyone trying to sell you something claims their product helps, but products on this list are tested and scored using established protocols – so they're scientifically proven, not just a marketing claim. There is one caution here – VOHC tests for plaque and tarter control, they don’t test products to determine if they're otherwise healthy or safe.

For many dogs, chewing raw (never cooked) bones or elk antlers works well too. Keep in mind that anything designed to be chewed may break and cause intestinal problems or injury. Most dogs enjoy chewing, and typically spend a few minutes chewing rather than bolting it down whole or in large pieces. However, you know your dog – if they don’t chew thoroughly, don’t give it to them. And, if you notice sharp edges or small pieces, take it away.

Talk with your veterinarian about what’s best for your dog. And, check your dog’s mouth regularly for signs of tartar or plaque build-up or infection. When it comes to your dog’s dental health, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Dog rescue is good for the soul

2010-11-04T11:27:00.019-06:00

Edmonton volunteer Allyson with Chewie, and Regina's Sheri with Leia.
Both dogs now live with their new family and two other boxers in BC.

A lot of people are attracted to specific breeds because of certain looks, temperament, or even familiarity. For example, someone’s childhood dog was a beagle, so they’re forever in love with beagles.

What a lot of people don’t realize is that you don’t need to go through a breeder to get a purebred dog. They’re constantly available through shelters and rescue groups. They’re perfectly good pets who are given up for a lot of reasons – some times it’s because their people didn’t realize the commitment it takes to have a dog, some times it’s because life has thrown the family a curve ball in the way of divorce, illness, or job loss.

The Bourries family has been lovingly fostering and adopting boxers for eight years. I asked them to share their inspiring story.

Lovely Libby was Sheri’s first rescue boxer.

1. What attracts you to the breed?

Boxers are the clowns of the dog world, they have great personalities and love to play. They are very social animals and are great with kids. Boxers are loyal family dogs and are very good protectors of home and family. They are athletic and strong, making them great running partners or agility dogs. We also like their short coats and easy care.

Sheri's family fostered the “mange puppies” Truman (next photo)
and Maggie last summer. Truman is living happily ever after in Winnipeg.
Maggie now lives in Regina.

2. Which rescue group are you involved with?

We volunteer for Without Borders Boxer Rescue, which is located in British Columbia. WBBR affiliates with Boxer Rescue LA, and we place dogs in BC, Alberta, Saskatchewan and Manitoba.

3. When did you get involved?

We have been involved with boxer rescue since 2002. We had purchased a puppy from a breeder and fell in love with the boxer breed. When we were looking for a second dog we discovered rescue and were amazed at the sheer number of beautiful boxers who were available for adoption. We were surprised at the number of purebred boxers who were looking for homes through no fault of their own. This problem has only gotten worse with the downturn of the economy, especially in California. We adopted our first boxer in September 2002 and just adopted our second in September 2010.

Rigby and Truman share a snugly moment.

4. Why do you take adult and senior dogs instead of puppies?

We prefer older dogs as we do not have the time or energy for puppies. Training and socializing a puppy and young dog takes a lot of time and effort. With an older dog you know what size they are going to be, their temperament is much easier to determine, and they have gone through the puppy stage of chewing and being into everything!

We have always adopted senior dogs as most people prefer young adults or puppies, and the seniors can spend years waiting for home. Senior dogs have many years of life in them, and they are more settled than younger dogs. Senior dogs are so grateful for a home, and they are much more adaptable to your routine rather than you adapting to the dog's needs.

The Bourries just adopted Kady, their new lady.

5. What is most rewarding for you about being involved with a rescue group?

This is a tough question as there are so many rewarding aspects to rescue. I love placing a dog with a family and seeing how happy the dog and the family are. Education is another big part of the rescue group. Some people are not sure what they are looking for and after spending time with them we can help them decide. If a boxer is not the right dog for a family I will always refer them to another rescue - there are breed-specific rescues for every breed of dog.

We stay in touch with our adopters for as long as they have our dogs, the follow up visits and emails are always wonderful, and it is great to experience the ripple effect of rescue when people refer their friends to us. The biggest reward is to see a dog who was previously homeless, maybe neglected or abused now living with a loving family and enjoying life.

We are huge advocates of rescue, there are far too many people who will buy a puppy on impulse without spending the time to research the breed or even if their lifestyle is conducive to a dog. I encourage anyone who is considering getting a dog to get in touch with a rescue group to see if rescue is for them.

If you’re planning to bring a new dog into your home, instead of going to a breeder, consider getting a gently loved older dog. Check out your local shelter, petfinder.com, or a local or breed-specific rescue group. If you’re interested in boxers, visit the the Without Borders Boxer Rescue Web site or send Sheri an e-mail (foreverhomes@live.com). She loves living with and chatting about boxers.

Pooches and pumpkin: pup-ular ideas for decorating and eating

2010-10-25T15:02:00.006-06:00

With Halloween just around the corner, and the supermarket full of pumpkins, here are some ideas to make the most of your pumpkins.

I found these neat dog themed stencils online last year. Although it looked easy, it was really tough cutting, and took a lot longer than I thought. Use the stencils, but instead of cutting, use a Sharpie marker to draw on your pumpkin. That way after Halloween, you can recycle and reuse your whole pumpkin.

In addition to being a super-food loaded with potassium, pumpkin is a wonderful natural remedy for your dog’s constipation or diarrhea. Just put a dollop of cooked pumpkin onto their regular food - or put it into a Kong toy as a treat – when there’s an occasional bout, or every day to keep them regular. Make sure it’s “just” pumpkin, not pumpkin pie filling, which is loaded with sugar. However, if diarrhea or constipation lasts for more than a day or two, it may be serious and need a trip to your vet.

To process your fresh pumpkin:

cut the top off as though you’re making a jack-o-lantern
scoop out the seeds and “guts”
place it on a cookie sheet, pop it into the oven, and roast it; or pop it in your microwave on a vegetable setting, until it comes out soft so you can easily scoop out the flesh
to freeze it, put the cooked pumpkin into zip lock bags, or for single servings, in greased ice cube trays

You can even roast the seeds and eat them yourself or feed them to Fido.

rinse the seeds and pick out the pulp and strings
spread them out on a baking sheet (greased or lined with a silicone sheet) – if you’re eating them, you may want to add spices or salt. For Fido, that’s not necessary.
bake at 325’ F for about 25 minutes, stirring half way through

Anything left is perfect for the compost heap.

Happy Halloween!

Puparazzi: Taking action photographs of your dog

2010-09-22T19:53:00.023-06:00

Even an expressive, jet black dog like Wilson takes a great photo
with the right lighting and camera angle.

I’m pretty excited - I bought a new camera last week – the main reason – to take doggie photos. I love taking pictures of happy dogs – and people tend to like my photos too, so here are a few of my learn-as-I-go tips. I’m a point-and-shoot kind of gal, so this is about what you're shooting, not how to use your camera. Don’t expect anything that’ll help you set your aperture and IS0 – you’re on your own for the technical stuff.

Most photos need three basic ingredients – a happy dog, a pretty location and sunshine – with you being on the right spot to focus the shot. These tips work really well for black dogs, who are sometimes more difficult to photograph.

Start with one happy dog. You are their everything – they watch you, they come to you for treats, hugs and to know that their world is safe. Know what your dog loves – treats, running, balls, toys, belly rubs – and work with it. If they like to play chase, play chase. And on the flip side, watch for hackles up or calming signals that tell you your dog isn’t happy – ears back, lip licking without you luring with a treat, yawning, etc. If you see any of that, first focus on calming your dog to make them happy, then try the photo thing much later. Use every moment – even photo taking – to reinforce training by rewarding good behaviours such as coming and sitting, and by completely ignoring and walking away from any undesirable behaviours such as jumping and barking.

Pick your location and set up your background. Look at your environment and pick a background for your photo. In our kennel yard, I like “framing” the dogs with grass, trees and fields in the background, rather than the building and parking lot. By doing that, the dog is the main topic in the photo. Watch for distractions too. In my yard, if I take the photo from the wrong angle, it looks like a tree is growing out of the dog’s head – like antlers.

It could have been a great photo of Bailey,
but there's a horrible tree growing out of her head!

Use sunshine as your helper. For best results, the sun should be to your back or side. Because it creates dark shadows on their face, never face the sun when taking your dog’s photo. I find that early or late in the day creates the nicest facial shadows. Photographs taken at mid-day or just before dusk can have some odd lighting and cast some unflattering shadows. Watch how your own shadow enters the photograph. I’ve got countless images where my own shadow looks like a looming zombie attacking the poor dog! Taking photos on cloudy days is OK, but never as good as on a sunny one.

Be on your dog’s level. My best action photos are where I’m with the dog on their level – where I squat, sit or even lay down on the ground. After their initial energy burst, most dogs tend to come looking for you– they want to be with you. When you’re on their level, you catch the best facial expressions. For your own safety, it's best to always pay full attention to your dog when they're enjoying any off-leash freedom. Adolescent dogs in particular can get carried away and plow into you - especially if you're down at their level - so it's best that you always know where they are and keep an agile, ready-to-go-in-any-direction stance (and duck and hide your head).

My two typical photos are running dog and sitting pretty.

For running dog photos, simply photograph them enjoying their run. Another way to get interesting expressions is to walk with your dog, and when they’re not paying attention run in the opposite direction (towards the sun), turn around quickly, then snap another photo of them running towards you.

Lacey is my little darling who always comes running to me.

For sitting pretty photographs, you need treats or something they love - like a ball. Once the dog has had a bunch of fun, reward them for sitting with a couple of treats, then hold a treat by the camera lens. Voila – you’ve got them posing for their picture.

Buddy sits pretty for a tasty duck jerky treat.

Focus the shot. Famous hockey player Wayne Gretzky skated to where the puck was going (rather than to where it was) … photographing dogs is a lot like that. Watch your dog’s movement, then aim and focus your camera where you think they’ll run – rather than to where they are. When your dog runs through that spot, click, you’ve got them. Trying to catch up to your dog to focus while your dog is running usually results in a blur.

Getting a great shot of Ashley is all about
anticipating where the dog is going, not where she is.

Finally, don’t get fixated. Have some fun, take a few photos, then put the camera away and have more fun. Don’t get frustrated if you don’t get that perfect shot – after all, it’s about being with and enjoying your dog – and tomorrow is another day.

If you’ve got any other helpful tips, please share – I’d love to hear about them.

Feeding raw food: Dogs are what they eat

2010-09-12T20:26:00.006-06:00

Nelson is fully powered by raw. He really loves bison, beef and chicken – all served up pink and bloody. Many “dog people” are really familiar with the raw diet, but for some pet people, this is a totally new concept.

Deciding what to feed your pet is a lot like deciding what to feed yourself - you can live on cheeseburgers and fries, pre-packaged frozen foods, vitamin enriched home-made granola, something in-between or combinations. For all of these options, you are making choices between nutrition, convenience and cost. And - you feel different depending on the diet you choose – so does your dog!

Why people choose raw

Packaged pet food came out in the mid 1900’s to get rid of food processing plant by-products. Since then, pet food manufacturers have done a great job telling you you can’t feed your dog “people food”. Other than a few food items that are toxic to dogs, there’s no difference between healthy people food and healthy dog food, other than some commercial dogs foods are made with sub-standard ingredients and additives of questionable health value put together in non-human grade processing plants.

You may have heard about a BARF diet. That phrase, coined by veterinarian Dr. Ian Billinghurst, stands for Biologically Appropriate Raw Food, or Bones And Raw Food. With a raw diet, your dog eats natural, human-grade foods with zero additives, preservatives, and unhealthy fillers. With raw, dogs are typically very enthusiastic about meal-time. You should notice improved overall health and vitality, better stools (less of them, and they’re not stinky), a shiny coat, and healthy white teeth. After switching to raw, many dogs with chronic skin rashes, hot spots and ear infections, see noticeable improvements.

However, not all veterinarians agree that the raw diet is healthy or safe. Some love it, some hate it – so depending on your vet, you’ll get different recommendations. Some people worry about getting sick from handling raw food – the key there is to handle your dog’s food in the same way that you handle raw meat you prepare for yourself.

Choices include ingredients, grain or grain-free, and fresh or processed

Ingredients

A typical raw food diet includes muscle meat or fish (chicken, beef, turkey, bison, etc. - the same stuff you eat), organ meat (liver, kidney, heart, gizzards, and such), bones, eggs, and fruit and vegetables (or green tripe). Their diet may also include supplements such as plain yogurt and/or digestive enzymes, and various oils like fish or canola. The key to a raw diet is that to retain all of its health benefits, meat and bones are not cooked or processed. Vegetables are only slightly cooked.

Grain-free diet

Purist BARFers don’t feed grains – anything made with corn, wheat, rice, etc. Many believe that our cute little biological wolves can’t process grains, believing they're the cause of so many of our dogs' serious modern-day health issues.

Fresh or processed

Regardless of if you choose raw and/or grain-free, you can also either buy pre-mixed foods or make your own. For convenience sake, you can purchase pre-formed raw patties or bulk meat blocks already mixed with fruits and vegetables. Conversely, you can assemble your own ingredients. By buying inexpensive human-grade chicken necks and backs and beef liver from your grocery store, asking for dog bones at your local butcher shop, and serving left-over and over-ripe fruits and vegetables, you can create a raw buffet your dog will love. Remember that your dog is an omnivore, not a carnivore, so it’s important to feed more than meat - fruits and veggies too.

If you want to improve the quality of your dog’s diet and you’re a bit squeamish about the whole raw thing, pop these natural ingredients into a slow cooker (except the bones – never serve cooked bones) and voila – holistic canine stew – freeze it in individual packages and Fido is set for the week.

This yummy doggie supper includes a raw beef patty, an egg including shell, and fruit and vegetable mush of bananas, mixed berries, brussel sprouts and broccoli, with two salmon oil capsules.

Tips to go raw:

The easiest way to start is buy quick-and-easy pre-packaged raw in either patties or bulk. Three very knowledgeable and very reputable local pet food retailers that sell pre-packaged raw pet foods are: Fido and Felix Foods, Metro Pet Market and Pawsitively Purrfect.
Provide a variety of meat sources. Buy chicken necks and backs, and serve them to your dog whole. Check what’s on sale at your supermarket, then buy it in bulk. Know of any friends who hunt? – offer to take their left-over parts.
Serve in-season fruits and vegetables. For example, in the spring provide steamed spinach with over-ripe bananas, and in the fall, zucchini with ripe tomatoes. Make it easy by saving your family’s left-over fruits and veges for Fido.
Serve organ meat such as beef liver or heart at least once per week. (My own dogs hate pork liver. They won't eat it.)
Ask your favourite butcher to cut up a beef knuckle bone into separate servings. Replace a couple of meals each week with bone (it’s not in addition to supper, it’s in place of supper).
Serve Fido your family’s left-overs, just make sure to exclude toxic foods like onions and grapes.
Toss a whole raw egg in every couple of days.
Add a dollop of plain, unsweetened yogurt and splash of canola oil to each meal.

The goal for your dog’s diet is to provide energy and increase their health and vitality. Do what works for your dog, and don’t stick to one approach if it’s obviously not working. If your dog shows any signs of not being well, talk with your vet – some issues can be diet related.

PS Hey Booberdog, hopefully this post helps Nelson not be jealous `,:3

Doggie Vaccination 101: understanding what’s right for your dog

2010-08-24T11:56:00.012-06:00

My nine-year old goldens, Daisy and Buddy recently went for their annual veterinarian health check-up. After a thorough going over, Buddy got his rabies booster vaccination, and both dogs had blood drawn for their annual titer tests.

This post is for general information. Please consult with your veterinarian about your dog’s health care and vaccination needs.

If you want to start a debate between dog people, bring up the topic of food or vaccinations. Even the vets don’t agree - I don’t point this out as a bad thing –they all have different training and practical experience. There are so many opinions, and everyone is firmly entrenched in their beliefs. You’d think that something that claims to be science-based would be easy, but it’s not.

At our kennel we see many people – especially first time dog guardians – who aren’t sure what to do even after talking with their vet; for example, they get one vaccination and think they’re done, when in fact they need additional boosters and their rabies shot. If you’re new to doggie parenting, here’s vaccination 101 to help you sift through it all.

Puppies and unvaccinated or improperly vaccinated dogs are at the highest risk of infection (if I had a new puppy, I would be extremely careful around areas where dogs congregate. I would carry it into the vet’s office so it wouldn’t be exposed to anything nasty that could be lurking in the parking lot or clinic itself). Dogs who socialize with other dogs at parks, grooming shops, dog training facilities, dog shows, doggie day cares and boarding kennels are at a greater risk of disease exposure. Dogs who interact with wildlife have a greater risk of rabies exposure. Vaccination is proven to minimize risk.

There are several different canine vaccinations your vet can choose from. In our part of Saskatchewan, veterinarians typically recommend a series of three to four shots for some combination of these diseases:

By vaccinating against distemper, parainfluenza, and adenovirus, dogs are protected against the respiratory disease Infectious Tracheobronchitis. Veterinarians may or may not recommend vaccination against Bordetalla or other vaccines depending on their philosophies towards vaccination and your dog’s risk factors. Risk factors are based on your pet’s lifestyle and geographic area where specific diseases may be prevalent. For example, a dog that lives in a city apartment is at much less of risk of contracting Leptospirosis than a rural dog who is exposed to raccoons.

After the puppy vaccines, your veterinarian will create a schedule of revaccination that includes the core vaccines – distemper, parvovirus (parvo) and rabies boosters, along with other non-core vaccines. If you check your dog’s vaccination certificate you’ll see a expiry dates for either disease names or some combination D, H and P's. (This is not to be confused with the vaccination expiry date – otherwise known as the best before date on the vaccine itself.)

Depending on where you live, there are laws that govern rabies vaccination. If you’re traveling with your pet for pleasure or to move, make sure you understand the vaccination requirements for different countries, provinces and states. Likewise, there are no common standards for boarding kennel vaccination protocols, so based on their experience and judgement, everyone does things a little bit different. If you’re boarding your dog, understand the specific vaccination policies for each of the kennels you plan on using.

Bordetella is the interesting vaccination. Some veterinarians encourage this vaccination – and some discourage it saying that it’s not overly effective. Some kennels insist on it, others don’t. Our perspective is that we admit dogs who are vaccinated according to their veterinarian’s wishes. In the best interest of the dog’s health, we won’t contradict a veterinarian’s recommendation. They’re the professionals in this matter, not us. The Bordatella vaccine is typically given as a nasal spray or injected vaccination with a booster. We like to think about it as being very similar to the flu shot for people. Some people get it, some don’t. Most often if a dog gets kennel cough, it’s like a person getting a common cold – uncomfortable, but for healthy dogs not life-threatening.

Other vaccinations and preventative treatments are more location-based. For example, ten years ago my dog would get the heartworm pill. However, given that there has only been one confirmed Saskatchewan originating case of Heartworm (and that dog was imported from the southern states), today my veterinarian doesn’t recommend heartworm treatment for my dogs.

The Controversy

Now here’s where it gets really interesting. Vaccination manufacturers needed to prove that the vaccines are effective for one year, which they did. What no one has proven though is how long those vaccinations are effective for – one, three, five years – or possibly a lifetime. As well, what also hasn’t been proven is the negative impact of over-vaccination. There is growing evidence that chronic illness increases with vaccination repetition and, although rare, reactions and complications occur.

Changing Protocols

Most veterinarians used to revaccinate annually. Because of new information, many, but not all clinics, are changing to a more customized approach based on each individual dog. Many dogs are now on a three-year protocol, get vaccinations postponed if ill, and stop vaccinating after the dog is geriatric – typically around ten years of age. Some veterinarians give all three vaccines at once, and others give parvo one year, distemper the next, and rabies during the third year. That way the dog still gets their very important annual health check-up, but doesn’t get vaccinated for things they don’t need. Not all clinics have adopted these new approaches.

Some veterinarians now offer alternatives to “regular” vaccinations. By drawing blood to do a titer test otherwise known as a serologic titer, they measure antibody response to a specific disease. Some diseases have been studied enough to know what level of antibody protects against that disease. This level is called a "protective titer." In Saskatchewan, they typically titer test for distemper and parvo. To get a rabies titer, your dog’s blood sample needs to be shipped all the way to Kansas, so it’s rarely done here.

To save money, some people choose to vaccinate their own dogs. I’m not at all keen on that. Vaccines must be handled in very specific ways (refrigerated), and be administered correctly to healthy animals. By self-administering, there is a greater risk to your dog because of product deterioration due to poor handling by the shipper, wholesaler, retailer or you, and ineffectiveness due to improper injection. As well, veterinarians are trained to ask the right questions about your dog’s health – and keep abreast of changing standards and protocols.

Some people choose not to vaccinate. That is a choice you can make. However, before making that decision, talk with a shelter worker who has experienced a distemper outbreak, or who has watched a “parvo puppy” suffer and die. As well, by making the choice to not vaccinate without your veterinarian’s blessing, you’re also making the choice to not board, groom or train your dog at a professional facility.

Daisy’s titer counts came back within range, and Buddy’s parvo is ok and distemper is lower than last year. We’ve got an appointment with our veterinarian to talk about whether he needs a distemper booster this year, or if it can wait another year. Because the kennel we take them to while we go away on vacation insists on Bordatella, both dogs will get the nasal vaccination in October. My veterinarian doesn’t recommend Bordatella for my two, so if that kennel didn’t insist, they wouldn’t get it.

My recommendation is that you know your dog, their environment and their lifestyle and travel risk factors – consult with your veterinarian to create a vaccination system that reduces risk and improves your dog’s quality of life, then, watch for and let your vet know of any post-vaccination symptoms.

If you’re interested in this topic, here are some additional useful resources:

American Veterinary Medical Association
Over-Vaccination-Dog Owners Beware in Whole dog journal, August 2010 edition
Nancy Kay, DVM, Vaccinations for Your Dog: A Complex Issue On Healthypet.com, sponsored by the American Animal Hospital Association
Dr. Patty Khuly, VMD – Fully Vetted Blog: Rabies vaccines or Vaccination location post
Will Falconer, DVM - Vaccinations: A Word of Caution for our animals

Making cheap and healthy dog treats: Chewy Beef Heart Jerky Recipe

2010-08-05T13:01:00.004-06:00

Dog food manufacturers and retailers are very good at making you think you have to buy packaged food and treats for your dog. However, another inexpensive alternative is to make your own – they're healthy, and additive and preservative free.

Instructions:

Slice beef heart into very thin slices
Lay strips across an oven racks
Place a cookie sheet on the oven rack below to catch the drippings – you can line the cookie sheet with tin foil to make clean-up easier
Roast at 170’ until the meat is dried – typically three to five hours

Cooking Alternatives:

You can also do this on the BBQ – turn all burners to high, burn off any old drippings, clean your grill, turn one burner to low and the rest off, then lay strips across.

If you’ve got a dehydrator, just place the strips into the dehydrator until done.

As always, when handling these or any store-bought dog treats, wash your hands after handling.

When it's hot, hot hot outside: preventing heat stroke in dogs

2010-07-20T12:06:00.003-06:00

Jessie knows exactly what she needs on a hot day – a shady spot and a cool, refreshing drink of water

Some dogs will literally play until they drop – especially ball-fixated dogs like labs. They don’t have many ways of telling you that they’re overheating or suffering from heat stroke, so it’s up to you to watch for signs: check their gums – they should be pink, not bright brick red or blue, and watch for excessive panting, increased heart rate and temperature, and confusion. In extreme cases breathing stops, there’s bruising, vomiting or diarrheoea, seizures or ultimately coma.

A recipe for a healthy, happy dog in the summer is water, shade and careful supervision. Monitoring and limiting their amount of play-time during the hottest time of day is essential. Never, ever leave your dog in a vehicle in the summer – they get too hot. And, for extra doggie comfort give your dog their own pool for easy self-cooling.

If you suspect that your dog is overheating, get their temperature down immediately. Place them in a shaded area and submerge them in cool water – especially the head and paws – keeping their face above water. Spraying them with a hose works too. Encourage them to drink water and check their temperature regularly, making sure you don’t lower it too low so they go into hypothermia.

Learn more about how to prevent health problems by taking a pet first aid course nearest you.

Not all vomit is created equal: dogs eat anything

2010-06-17T11:11:00.006-06:00

Jerry the lab threw this up!

Shortly after young lab Jerry arrived, he threw up a little bit. Not pleasant, but not something to worry about. All it took was a quick clean-up and a little snuggle. About an hour later, he threw up two two-inch lag bolts, a piece of metal, fragments of kids’ toys, and a ball of wool. Yikes – Jerry was quickly off to the vet for an x-ray. Dr. Sheppard said his guts looked like a Marshall-Wells Hardware store. Lucky for Jerry, he passed two desk keys and some other gunk without needing surgery.

Sadly, we hear this story all too often. Skittles had surgery to remove a half ball that the neighbours’ children accidentally threw over the fence. Luckily he had eaten a small rock, which showed up on the x-ray. Maggie ate a bath towel. Carly usually passes socks, but needed $3500 in surgery to get the last one out. Shadow the vizsla has had two surgeries, the first to remove a Power Ranger, and the second, a small stuffed money. Sadly, Spike the dalmatian died after a baby pacifier gummed up his intestines.

Although anything small enough to swallow could be a problem, according to VIP Pet Insurance, the most common items dogs eat are socks, underwear, pantyhose, rocks, balls, chew toys, corn cobs, bones, hair ties/ribbons and sticks.

If your dog vomits a little bit, don’t worry about it, but if the vomiting is frequent or projectile, or if there is associated diarrhoea, blood, a fever, lethargy, or distended abdomen contact your veterinarian. If your dog ever throws up metal or other nasty objects, go to the vet. If you’re unsure, check their circulation, and if their gums are white, take them to the vet right away.

To prevent gastrointestinal obstruction, remove small objects from any place your dog has access to, and check their toys regularly to remove small or damaged items.

I want a puppy: picking a dog that’s right for you

2010-06-10T20:18:00.006-06:00

The conversation usually goes like this: I want a beagle.What makes you want a beagle? I don’t know. They’re so cute.

Boober is a gentle blue heeler husky cross. She likes long walks with occasional bursts of energy, sheds a bit, doesn’t drool much, and is pretty low-maintenance.

Dogs come in all shapes, sizes, colours and dispositions – along with a variety of lifestyle needs, yet so many people pick their puppy solely based on size or looks. While size and looks are great criteria when buying a new pair of shoes, they’re not the most important factors when picking a dog who lives with you for the next 10 to 15 years. I catch myself doing it too. I see a cute little puppy on the humane society web site and momentarily think, “awe – I want that dog,” and easily rationalize it. But I quickly snap out of it. It would be selfish for me to get another dog right now – especially when that dog would be better off living with someone else.

The best time to think about what you want in a dog is long before you’re spontaneously reacting to one. Here are some things to think about long before taking the puppy plunge.

YOUR READINESS

A most important factor to think about is what makes you want a new puppy or dog.
Are you looking for a companion, an exercise partner, a gift for your child, a guard dog or something else? I always worry when people say they want a guard dog and have no experience with them. What that usually means is they know nothing about dogs, they naïvely believe that throwing a dog in the back-yard means they have a guard dog, and what they end up with is an under-socialized, aggressive animal.

Who lives with you or visits often?
Different dogs are better for different family types. You should end up with a different dog if you live alone, with others, with young children, or are planning a family in the near future. If you already live with animals, determine how you’ll introduce the new one to your pack. Also think about what you’ll do if all of your pets don’t get along.

How much time and effort will you realistically spend with this animal?
Puppies are a LOT of work – they need to be socialized, house-trained, obedience trained and exercised. Think about your lifestyle. Do you spend several hours a day at work, belong to different sports teams, and socialize a lot? Are you prepared to give some of that up to spend time with your dog? How much exercise do you want to do with your dog? Are you a walk around the neighbourhood kind of person, marathon runner, or are you into elite dog sports like agility? Be realistic about this – if you’re a couch potato today, you’re not likely to spend two hours a day vigorously exercising your future dog and spending time at the dog park.

Have you been successful with pets before?
A commitment to a pet is for life. By being successful, I mean as an adult have you already cared for a pet for its entire life? If you’ve had one or more false starts where you’ve had a pet, then for some reason gave it up – especially more than once - think long and hard about whether you deserve a dog in your life. What’s best for the dog over the long-term?

YOUR MATCH

What size of dog fits your lifestyle and home?

The type of home you live in, or are likely to live in soon is important. Do you live in an apartment, condo with neighbours, or house with a small or large yard in a city, town or out in the country? Are you moving into a seniors’ complex soon? Are you likely to move back in with your parents? Are they likely to move in with you? We see a lot of empty nester parents who end up looking after their 20ish year-old kids’ dogs, so it’s really important to think this through – possibly even involving other family members in your decision. (If you’re uncertain about your future living arrangements, think about fostering animals with your local shelter or rescue group instead of taking one on for life, or think about adopting a senior dog. That way you’ll get short-term companionship without long-term commitment.)

What kind of attitude and energy are you looking for?

You may think you want a lab puppy, but are you really ready for that? Here’s your guarantee – all puppies are cute, and all puppies are a LOT of work. High-energy adolescent dogs between two and four years old need a lot of exercise to burn off pent-up energy. Adult and senior dogs may be slightly set in some ways, but often have life figured out and are simply more laid back. And when it comes to breed-specific temperaments, some dogs are better when handled by experienced dog people. (Please don’t take on more dog than you can handle.) Before committing to a specific breed, talk with experienced dog people about the pros and cons of each breed.

What’s your gross-out factor?

Dogs shed, drool, and bark. They pee and poop daily, vomit occasionally and have eye boogers. Some dogs do more or less of all of these things. I have a high tolerance to hair, but excessive drool grosses me out. A lot of really small dogs never completely figure out the house-training thing. Know your limits and select a dog that has characteristics you can live with.

How much time and money will you spend on grooming?

All dogs need some amount of grooming including brushing, bathing and clipping, along with nail trimming, dental care, and expressing anal glands (ew!). Those with quick-growing coats likely need professional care, others with long hair need regular brushing and often need supplementary sanitary trims and butt baths too.

Where will your dog hang out while you’re away?

If you and your partner have jobs that keep you away from your dog for large parts of the day or night, where will your dog spend his time? A yard? A crate? In the house? What will you do so he’s not bored? Especially if you get a puppy, will someone be able to let the little guy out to relieve himself?

When you’re away for extended periods of time, will you leave Fido with friends, family members, pet sitters, or at a kennel?

Think about your back-up plan too. We get so many calls in the summer explaining that a neighbour was going to look after the dog, but is now going away on vacation too. Or, while the pet owner is away, the neighbour calls looking for last-minute boarding after realizing that a one-year old lab is a lot of work, pees on their sofa, and digs up their prized roses. Ninety-nine percent of the time, those last minute calls occur when we’re full during busy holiday seasons and can’t help out. Likewise, what will you do if your dog gets a communicable disease and can't stay at the kennel - what are your back-up plans?

Can you afford this animal?

All dogs have base costs to adopt/buy, vaccinate, sterilize, provide regular and emergency veterinary care, and train. However, it takes a lot more money to feed a great dane than it does to feed a chihuahua. Think it through so there are no surprises.

Once you’ve narrowed things down, do talk with people at your local shelter, reputable breeders, veterinarians, and others who work with dogs. They’ll help you narrow things down even more. Don’t go to a pet store that sells puppies because they’ll encourage you to buy from their inventory rather than what fits your dog’s needs and your life - remember puppies aren’t shoes. They do chew shoes though :)

If you or anyone you know is thinking about getting a dog in the future, I hope this post helps you find your perfect match - your new friend for life.

Book Review: It’s me or the dog: How to have the perfect Pet

2010-06-02T11:59:00.002-06:00

In my opinion, this is an exceptional how-to book for dog people.

The author Victoria Stilwell is a dog-trainer who stars in the TV series It’s me or the dog. She uses positive techniques to train and build relationships with dogs, and helps dogs think on their own without having to physically manipulate, yell or scold, or otherwise be a brute to them. I love that she has a kind, calm approach that clearly demonstrates that you don’t need to “dominate” to train. As a bonus, the format is easy-to-read and is visually interesting, making this book accessible for even non-readers.

Highlights of the book are that it:

provides a very good overview about how dogs communicate
explains calm assertive, rather than aggressive manipulative approaches
gives very specific step-by-step instructions to train people in basic obedience skills such as sit, stay, come and impulse control
gives instructions that motivate dogs to think and want to do things because of the pleasurable consequences, rather than forcing them
offers solutions to unwanted behaviours like barking, leash pulling, biting, marking (peeing), and separation anxiety
without being preachy, explains basic animal welfare issues like avoiding pet store puppy-mill puppies, spay/neutering, choke chains/collars, shock collars and sheltering

Where this book is light is in its coverage of food and nutrition. I agree with Ms Stilwell’s overall recommendation to improve the nutritional quality of your dog’s diet. However, given that different dogs have different nutritional requirements based on their age, breed, activity level and health issues, and given that scientists, including veterinarians and small animal nutritionists can’t agree, I don’t trust her specific recommendations. (For example, my veterinarian recommends raw and Ms Stilwell says no to raw ... I trust my vet's recommendation.)

In summary, read this book, use her training techniques, ignore her specific advice about food, and talk with your veterinarian about how to improve the quality of your dog’s diet.

You can also access some practical training tips at Victoria’s web sites at http://positively.com and http://animal.discovery.com/tv/its-me-or-dog/, and follow her on Facebook and Twitter.

This book is available at any book store and the Regina Public Library.

Petscaping: designing Fido-friendly outdoor spaces

2010-05-27T13:36:00.007-06:00

This big bad boy is Gryphon. Our first, enormous golden topped out at 120 pounds, and when he was a puppy, he was a holy terror. Just into our new home, we decided to get our adorable puppy. We had enough sense to think about some landscaping basics - a high fence and doghouse, but that was about it. This cutie-pie tore chunks of sod up, chewed our little trees down like a beaver, and dug up my beautiful new rose bushes. Our yard was a total disaster.

Dogs need fencing, shelter, shade, water and a bathroom space. Some dogs are climbers and can even leap over six foot fences, and some dig recreationally or to escape. Many create patrolling paths. And of course in Saskatchewan, you need to think about how one snow blizzard can easily turn a six foot fence into a three foot suggestion.

Petscaping is the term to describe landscaping with your pet’s needs in mind. My second passion next to dogs is horticulture – planning, planting and enjoying landscapes, gardens and yards. If you love dogs and gardens, here are some things to think about when planning your yard.

Fences and Gates
If you’ve got or may get a big dog, install tall fences. Some dogs can get over six foot fences with a single leap. Think about how you’d handle it if your dog ends up being like that. Think about the smallest dog that you might have too and make sure they can’t slip through any holes in the fence.

Some dogs dig. Either install your fencing down into the earth so your dog can’t get under it or create a cement barrier just under the fence and/or gate area.

If your property backs onto an alley, street or park, decide how you can reduce the risk of children taunting your dog, which can cause difficult behavioural issues for your dog (obviously kids taunting dogs already have behavioural issues …).

What kind of gate closure will ensure that no one can enter and leave the door open for your dog to escape, and that your dog can’t accidentally knock it open?

Decking

Dogs' feet are made for walking, and they’ll wear the finish off any wooden surface. If you want paw-friendly decking, choose something that doesn’t need refinishing. Concrete, bricks or some of the newer synthetic woods are great solutions.

Walkways

Dogs like walking the perimeter and patrol paths. If you’ve got the luxury of being able to watch your dog before installing paths, use their natural movements to help you choose where to put them.

Waste

Dog urine kills grass. If you want them to pee and poo in your yard, are they trained to go in one spot or will anywhere in the yard work? Are children also using the space? Perhaps a separate dog run away from the children's play area would be appropriate. What do you want to do with the poo – a close garbage or perhaps a dog poo compost space?

Dog run

Dogs most likely to bite are un-neutered dogs that are chained. Untethering your dog is one of the kindest things you can do. If you want your dog to have a separate dog run, make it large enough for them to enjoy, and think about how your dog will easily move from your house to the run. It’s pretty simple in the summer, but think through the winter months too when there’s three feet of snow in your back yard and you want fido to move from your back deck into his run to go potty.

Dog houses

Some dogs love to jump up onto their dog houses. When you’re thinking about where to place the dog house, be sure that it’s not right up against a fence – otherwise it could be a step ladder to the other side of your fence.

Design your dog house so it’s raised off the ground, has a door flap, is insulated and, if used in the winter, is heated. Really good houses have a “wind wall” – basically, the house is set up with two rooms – they enter into a porch that opens into their actual sleeping quarters. Lots of neat designs are available online.

Water

Drinking water: Where will your dog’s water bowl be located so it’s away from their potty area and easy for you to access and remember to fill? If used in the winter, you can buy heated dog bowls to make sure the water doesn’t freeze - that bowl needs to be near an electrical outlet so it can be plugged in.
Grooming: Will you want to wash your dog or at least their muddy paws outside? If so, think about water tap location relative to your dog’s space and your back yard.
Play pond: If your dog loves water, do you want a spray pond or kiddie pool to be part of their back-yard life? If so, think about how to restrict unsupervised access so they can’t drown.

Garbage

If your yard also houses your garbage cans, think about how you’ll limit Fido’s access too it. Nothing smells quite as good as a fresh bag of garbage to a dog. Can you section off the maintenance area of your yard from Fido’s area?

Digging
Dogs love digging. Work with that tendency by creating a digging garden and off-limits areas. For your digging garden, create a pit with sand or gravel. Within the pit, bury favourite treats like peanut butter stuffed Kongs, then watch your dog enjoy the thrill of discovering great treats. For the off-limits garden areas, lay down chicken wire on the ground, then affix it to the soil with landscape ties. Your dog won’t be able to dig in those areas.

Plantings

Especially if you have young dogs, it may be easier for you to keep a good yard if you use raised flower and garden beds and pots instead of ground-level plantings. If you do go for ground-level plantings, you can purchase decorative fences to put around the plants to keep them safe.

If you want a fruit or vegetable garden avoid planting or restrict your dog’s access to grapes, rhubarb, onions, garlic, green tomatoes or potatoes, all of which are toxic to dogs. Dogs love fruits and vegetables - our Gryphon would eat the raspberries off the bottom branches!

To make it easy to select your plants and trees, do it in two steps. First, pick items that work for your planting zone and design needs, then, before buying, check if those plants are toxic to dogs by using the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) online plant tool.

When doing lawn and plant care, be sure to select fertilizers that are pet-friendly. Lots of fertilizers can burn their foot pads if applied incorrectly. Store these items in an area that is safely away from your dog.

Mulch as a toy

Some dogs chew or eat mulch, so be really careful about what you use. Cocoa mulch is toxic to dogs, so avoid that completely. Some dogs chew on and swallow rocks, which can break teeth and lodge in their intestines, which is deadly for them and expensive for you. Determine a safe mulch or ground cover and watch to make sure that your dog is being safe around it. To limit chewing, give your dog lots of alternate items to chew on – raw bones, raw hides and peanut butter or frozen chicken stuffed Kongs are great.

Enrichment

Will your yard be a puppy paradise? You can purchase dog equipment for agility and other sports. If you plan to spend time in that area, it’s worth investigating before your design is finished.

Once you’ve thought it all through, take a quick survey to make sure your dog is comfortable through all seasons. Do they have shade during the hot summer months? Do they have warmth through the winter months? Are you both comfortable with what you’ve got? If you answered yes to all of those questions, have fun with your summer project and enjoy your yard!

Being safe: It’s dog bite prevention week

2010-05-17T22:06:00.003-06:00

Crating your kids is one proven way to make sure a dog won’t bite them. (My now teenage nephews are going to kill me for posting this photo.)

Plenty of evidence shows that large breed, un-neutered male dogs that are chained and treated irresponsibly are the most likely to cause serious and fatal bites. So logic flows that if you have sterilized your dog and treat it responsibly, you’re off to a great start. But that’s just a start. Dogs have very few ways to tell you that they’re scared. They have specific body language and teeth. Every dog has a bite threshold, and you can do quite a few things to minimize the risks.

Introductions are really important. Train your child to behave around their dog so they:

ask permission before touching a strange dog, “be a tree”, remain calm and avoid eye contact
don’t squeal, run, take the dog’s stuff including food and toys, startle the dog when sleeping, give neck hugs

There are great online resources for parents and educators. Here are some particularly good ones:

For older children, involve them in your dog’s formal training program. And, teach your children not to tease a chained or tethered dog. That’s one of the best ways to turn a good dog into an aggressive one.

There are also lots of things you can do to help your dog too:

Pick the right pet for your family. They’ve got different energy levels and emotional drivers. Make sure you research what you’re getting before you bring one home.
Socialize them to people of all ages when young. The more types of people your dog is exposed to, the better. Young. Old. Large. Small. Men. Women. Bearded. Bald. Everyone.
Train your dog. The canine good citizen test outlines 10 manners that your dog should comfortably do. Use this as a benchmark for your dog’s training routine.
Spay/neuter your pet to calm the hormones down.
Watch for warning signs from any dog –hackles are raised (hair goes up on its back), stiff posturing, lip smacking, growling, backing away, half-moon eyes or a hard stare.
Always supervise children around dogs. Dogs are animals, not people and never forget that.
Train your dog to react calmly around strangers especially the milk man, postal workers, meter readers, and others who show up regularly.
Teach a soft bite so if they ever do feel the need to bite, it’ll be a warning rather than a serious incident.
Protect your pet from harms way. Don’t let anyone do anything to your dog that could make it become scared, then aggressive.
If your dog has bitten, train them and manage them so they’re not put into a position to bite again.

When you take on the responsibility of a dog, you’re morally and legally responsible for its actions. Learn what you can, train your dog, and teach your children to behave around them so you can minimize your risks.

Feeding your dog healthy, fresh food

2010-04-29T13:16:00.006-06:00

Slide 1

Home-made dog biscuits: Grain-free peanut butter chip drop cookies

If you want to start a heated debate among dog people, two controversial topics you can bring up are food and vaccinations. Even among vets, breeders and others who work day-to-day with dogs, there is no consensus. This posting is about food – I’ll do another one about vaccinations later.

The most common types of doggie diets are store-bought processed, raw, grain-free and combination diets. Some believe that only foods created using the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) standards are considered safe and nutritionally balanced. Others believe that dogs should be fed raw meat and bones with fresh fruits and vegetables. Yet others prefer grain-free diets. Some do a blend.

My views aren’t extreme. I believe that like people, no one diet works for every dog. Your dog’s lifestyle, genetics and overall health make their food requirements unique. An elite-athlete sled dog has different nutritional and caloric needs than a toothless, couch potato, geriatric miniature poodle. Likewise, dogs with food allergies or medical conditions need special diets. I also don’t believe that serving processed food is always best. My problem with processed foods is that you’re often paying for a low-quality ingredients, a high water volume and environmentally unfriendly packaging.

My personal preference is a raw diet supplemented with fresh foods. I put some caveats on that though. It’s essential to know what items are toxic to dogs. Everything should be fed in moderation. You wouldn’t live on one food item, nor should your dog. It's important to balance food types over time, rather than at each meal. And, watch to not include toxic ingredients.

Some people will argue that feeding people food makes dogs mooch or get fat. I disagree. Dogs mooch because of where you feed them, not what you feed them. If you feed your dog in the kitchen or at the dinner table, they’ll mooch. If you feed them in their spaces, they won’t. They mooch if they’re rewarded by doing it. And, unless there is a medical condition, they get fat when feed too much. It's that simple.

If you want to serve people food to your dog, it’s pretty easy to find lists of toxic foods for dogs, but what isn’t readily available is a list of generally healthy and safe foods. Here’s a starting point list of foods that I comfortably will and won’t feed to my own dogs:

Generally healthy and safe foods

Lean meat, fish and poultry, peanuts and unsweetened peanut butter, raw bones, offal (heart, liver, kidney, tongue, tripe), eggs, beans and lentils, apples, bananas, blueberries, saskatoon berries, cranberries, cherries, pineapple, dried fruits including dates, carrots, cabbage, spinach, green or yellow string beans, broccoli, ripe tomatoes, potatoes, yams, zucchini, beets, alfalfa sprouts, parsley, cod liver oil, salmon oil, canola oil, olive oil, flax or hemp seed, glucosomine, acidophilus, digestive enzymes, nutritional yeast, bone meal or egg shells, yogurt, kefir and cottage cheese.

Unhealthy and/or toxic foods

Ham, bacon or excessive poultry skin, macadamia nuts, walnuts, cooked bones, grapes, raisins and some currants including juices and trail mixes, rhubarb fruit and leaves, fruit seeds from apples, pears, plums, peaches and apricots, onions, garlic, avocado, green tomatoes and potatoes, potato peels, lumps of fat off meat, butter, corn, popped corn, yeast dough that’s rising, hops, xylitol, milk, nutmeg, caffeinated coffee and tea, salt, chocolate, cocoa powder and chocolate icings, alcoholic beverages, moldy foods and sugar.

I’m not a veterinarian or a small animal nutritionist so please consider this as one source of information. The pet food industry has done a very good job telling people that they’re incapable of feeding dogs. I don’t believe them. Read about the topic, talk with your vet and others in the pet care business, then make choices that are best for your dog. If you feed your dog something that doesn't increase their vitality or agree with them, check with your vet.

♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥

Recipe for home-made dog biscuits: Grain-free peanut butter chip drop cookies

2 cups black beans

1 cup peanut butter

2 eggs – include shells

½ cup dried fruit (16 apricots - NEVER use raisins)

Blend 1.5 cups of beans with the rest of the ingredients in a food processor.

Once fully blended, fold in ½ cup of black beans so they look like chocolate chips (NEVER use chocolate)

Drop by teaspoonful onto cookie sheets

Bake at 350’ for 15 minutes

If you want to eat these yourself as protein bars, omit the egg shells.
I prepare black beans in bulk by soaking, boiling, bagging and freezing them in advance.

Appreciating animal control this week

2010-04-16T10:30:00.003-06:00

These are my delightfully sucky cats. Betty on the left was given to me by a friend, and Wilma on the right had her start at the Regina Humane Society. We don’t know what Wilma’s life was before she arrived at their doorsteps. All we know is that she was unwanted. She could have simply been dropped off. She could have been in distress. We’ll never know. What we do know is that she was given a second chance because of animal control and protection laws.

According to RHS, this week is Animal Control Appreciation Week. So I think, we should all hug an animal protection officer – or at least show our appreciation. These are the wonderful women and men who give animals a second chance by working at humane societies, societies for the prevention of cruelty to animals, and in municipalities to enforce the Criminal Code of Canada, the Animal Protection Act and municipal bylaws.

This cartoon is a really nice tribute those who work in this field.

In the business of animals, animal control and animal protection are two distinct things – one is about keeping animals safe from people, the other about keeping people safe from animals.

I prefer to think about it in context of Gandhi’s famous quote, “The greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be judged by the way its animals are treated.” I see that good animal protection practices results in good animal control, which helps to create strong, safe and healthy communities – that people who treat animals well, also treat each other well. For example, when an unsterilized animal is malnourished, untrained and allowed to roam, a child is easily harmed. No one wins and our society pays the price. Conversely, when animals are treated with kindness and compassion – they’re sterilized and receive proper food, water, shelter and care, kindness spills over to how people treat each other. I’m a bit of an idealist that way.

Do your part to help animal control and protection – sterilize your pet, treat it well and help a friend or neighbour be kind to animals. And to the fine animal protection and control workers, thank you so much for all you do!

Double dog dare you: getting a second dog

2010-04-08T12:38:00.006-06:00

Nothing beats the pure bliss of watching two dogs romp and play together. They seem inseparable. Where one dog explores, the other follows. They curl up together on their comfy beds into tiny balls so you can’t tell where one starts and the other stops. When they come to visit us at our kennel, double dogs are always happy – and that makes sense because they’re always hanging around, playing with their best buddy.

In single-dog families, you are their universe. You are the source of everything – including being their 24/7 live entertainment. At times, that’s great, and at other times, especially when they’re puppies or adolescents, it would be nice if some of their extra puppy energy would be burned off elsewhere. Enter, the second dog. After you’ve exercised and trained your dog, you can chill and watch your dogs run, interact and play. They can burn off more energy together in a half hour than you could ever give them in several hours – unless you’re into agility or other dog sports of course.

However, there is a secret dark side to double dogs. In addition to the extra space they take (think about two danes), double the hair and poo to clean up, and doubling your cost for food and veterinary bills (especially if both get serious, expensive medical issues), as with people, there can be personality issues – and those issues can turn into aggression and management problems. The most difficult problems seem to be with female/female and big/small dogs. Females can wrestle for dominance, and what would normally be a small scuffle between size-matched dogs can easily become deadly when yorkie and retriever sized dogs get into it. Another thing to watch for is getting puppies from the same litter. They’re awesome and adorably cute, but they can bond more with each other than with you.

Some believe that the ideal way to get a second dog is to get one, train it and bond with it, then get your second dog later. Compatible dogs include picking male/male or male/female rather than two females, and sticking to similar sizes. Once you’ve got two dogs, spend solo time exercising, training and bonding with each dog. If you already have a big and small dog, watch their dynamics, and possibly separate them when you’re not there to supervise them.

Personally, I’m really big on double dogs. I love living with Daisy and Buddy. Every now and then they still get on each other’s nerves – usually over a really, really tasty treat – but knowing that helps me manage around it.

If you’re interested in this topic, here are a few more resources:

Fully Vetted blog posting
Creative Dog Training’s podcast about getting a second dog
Whole Dog Journal article When Packmates Fight (Payment is required to access this article)

Dealing with dog aggression: when your sweet, adorable puppy, turns into Cujo

2010-04-01T15:34:00.004-06:00

We hear it over and over again “my dog would never bite”. That’s simply wrong – every dog will bite. We all know about some normally mild-mannered person who one day snaps and gets road rage – dogs are no different. They don’t have many ways to express themselves – so they use their teeth. They typically give several warning signs ranging from a growl to a stare and freeze, then move on to a bite. For some dogs, that progression is slow, for others, all of those phases can happen in a moment. This escalation process to an actual bite is called the “bite threshold”. Normal dog aggression occurs around specific triggers such as being touched, resource guarding “their” stuff – toys, food, etc., their people or around other animals. For example, a normally calm, submissive animal can appear to be vicious when approaching another dog while on a leash walk.

While many dogs are able to tolerate one stressor, trouble often occurs when a number of their stressors combine. For example, one dog dislikes, but tolerates toddlers, they tolerate when people take their favourite toy, and they tolerate loud noises. But, inevitably you have a loud family party, where a toddler takes the dog’s favourite toy. That combination could be too much stress for your dog to handle. Then wham, the dog bites, and everyone is shocked.

Here are a few things you can do to avoid aggression:

Be a leader
This is about being like a confident, assertive-parent. It’s not about being an aggressive dominant brute. You’re in control of everything in your dog’s life and they need to realize that. Use trainer Sue Ailsbury’s techniques to respectfully and responsibly put yourself in control of your relationship.

Socialize your dog to everything
Let your dog experience the world and different people of all ages, men and women. Let them see the world so they realize that it’s not a scary place.

Never use aggression on your dog
Using aggression builds fear. When you build fear, you’re also setting the stage for future aggression.

Handle your dog and their stuff
From day one, take away their stuff, make them move from your pathway and off the furniture, and be able to touch them all over. Ideally get other people to do this too so your dog is prepared for other caregivers such as vets and trainers.

Ask for and reward the behaviour you want – rather than tolerating what you get
Every day your milk man arrives, your dog goes wild, then watches him leave. His little doggie brain tells him that he’s done his job by sending the bad man away. Rather than allowing this behaviour, train your dog to do something preferable like sit or go to your mat. Reward that behaviour. Eventually your dog will sit or go to their mat when they see the milk man arrive.

Teach your dog to have a soft mouth
If you do this right and one day they feel the need to bite, they’re less likely to cause damage.

Protect your dog
One of your jobs is to protect your dog from harm’s way so they never feel threatened. Being attacked by another dog is an easy way to build aggression into your dog. One trainer I know carries a riding crop with her when walking her dog. If any dog tries to harm her dog, they can’t. It sounds a little nasty, but I’d rather deter someone else’s aggressive dog than build fear into mine.

If you notice signs of aggression, manage or modify it right away. Doing nothing is a recipe for disaster – either you or someone else will be bitten. Check with your vet to rule out that behaviour changes are not medically related – eg. if they’re in pain, they may snap. Don’t do anything that is likely to get yourself bitten. If you’re concerned at all, seek a professional trainer to help you out. When doing that, make sure you find one that uses positive techniques rather than aggressive, fear-based methods. Never tolerate behaviour in a small dog that would be unacceptable in larger dogs. What often starts out as cute puppy behaviours can turn into a nightmare.

Here are some additional resources to help you on your way:

Good overview posting about dog aggression
Lots of very good training podcasts about aggression, dogs with kids, etc.
Good info by Dr. Sophie Yin
Specific corrective skills from Jean Donaldson’s book entitled Mine

Stopping dogs from inhaling their food

2010-03-25T13:30:00.001-06:00

Some dogs – especially labs and beagles – truly “wolf” their food down. The bowl goes down – gulp, gulp, done. Often that’s followed by choke, puke – repeat as necessary. If you didn’t know better, you’d swear the poor thing is starving.

When it comes to food, dogs are designed different than we are – because they’ve got an incredible sense of smell, they’re more olfactory focused than we are. And because they have fewer taste buds, flavour really isn’t that important to them. They don’t need to chew and savour every morsel. Humans have flat teeth, designed for chewing and mixing food with saliva. Dogs are designed to kill, tear and cut (nasty huh), then swallow – digestion happens later in their very acidic stomach.

There’s a genetic component to this too. In times of food scarcity, your dog’s ancestors had to eat fast to get their share and survive. It’s hard to pause that kind of genetic programming.

Since your dog doesn’t need to worry about where their next meal is coming from, and because they can choke or vomit when eating too fast, here are a couple of things you can do to slow them down. A simple trick is to turn a regular dog bowl upside down. As shown in the above photo, the dog has to surf around the bowl’s edges to reach every morsel. Another option is to add water to their kibble to make it mushy. If either of those options don’t work, try the scatter approach – simply throw the full portion of kibble onto the floor in a scattered pattern – not on a pile – so your dog is forced to find each and every morsel.

Read more about dog digestion at:

http://www.best-dog-food-guide.com/dog-digestion.html

http://www.iheartpaws.com/articles/59/1/How-Your-Dogs-Digestion-Works-By-Andrew-Lewis/Page1.html

http://www.dog-nutrition-naturally.com/dog-digestion.html

Spring has sprung, the grass has riz, I wonder where the dog poo is?

2010-03-18T22:23:00.004-06:00

The snow is melting and with the beautiful sun and warmth, comes nasty blizzard poo. It’s that horrible stuff that got stuck under a winter blizzard resurfacing with the spring melt.

The best pooper scooper in the world isn’t actually a pooper scooper. It’s a reach extender. People with limited mobility use these extenders to pick up items from the floor or reach items from a top shelf. What engineers likely didn’t think about is that they’re also awesome at picking up dog poo too.

We get ours from a few places. The ones from Regal are consistently good – they work well, don’t get stuck, and last a long time. Peavy Mart and Liquidation World (on Park Street) also sell them, but some times the quality is a bit suspect, so they break easily or get stuck in a locked position, which clamps down too hard on your poo. (There’s not much worse than that, but hey, you’re reading a dog blog, so you know a thing or two about poo.)

A race straight for your heart: adopting a retired racing greyhound

2010-03-08T11:55:00.006-06:00

Kim and her young family were looking for a perfect dog for their family. They thought long and hard about it, and had some very specific criteria in mind – a rescue, a bigger dog, one that would be good with young children, one that didn’t need too much extra exercise so it would fit into their already full schedule, already house trained, and with an aversion to chewing shoes – good thing she didn’t impulsively get a Golden puppy!

After looking at local shelters, nothing matched her needs. Kim’s friend recommended that she consider a retired racing greyhound. Originally, Kim thought they were high-energy and way too skinny for her taste, but she soon learned that a greyhound would be a perfect match. Retired racers are low-energy dogs who have been crated 23 hours each day, and like to sleep in soft places. They need a fenced yard so they can run for short bursts, and only require 30 – 60 minutes of walking each day. Many of them do not bark. They are even tempered. Their skin does not produce oil, so they hardly smell. They eat a lot, and may shed a great deal. They can never be let off leash in an unenclosed area, as their drive to run is incredibly strong. In spite of these potential drawbacks, Kim was intrigued. Her vet told her that because they are so calm and even tempered, U of S veterinary students often work on retired racing greyhounds – he also told Kim that they’re very sweet dogs.

Kim found Garfield at the Northwest Canadian Greyhound League. This gorgeous blue fawn dog with incredible toffee coloured eyes had been up for adoption for over three months. He was already neutered, and had been temperament tested for kids, small dogs, and cats, and was found to be safe with all of them. Kim talked with his foster mom, and as a final check NCGL arranged for a home visit from a local family who already had greyhounds. Kim’s family drove to Calgary, paid the $275 adoption fee, and Garfield was theirs.

When she first met him, Kim was intimidated. Garfield is incredibly well muscled, was scared in general, but more specifically of crowds and children, lacked confidence, and needed time to adjust. However, it didn’t take him long to decide that Kim was his. He wanted to be close to her – affectionately putting his head into her lap.

Shortly after, Kim and her children looked into getting a second dog. They turned to NCGL again. The group was looking for a foster home for Dawson, who didn’t like jumping on furniture. This time Kim’s family drove to Medicine Hat to pick up the pathetic looking Dawson. His coat was dull and he had a lot of dandruff. He was so skinny his ribs were sticking out. He had no muscle tone, and very little energy. Yet he leaned against her son, wanting to be petted. He didn’t know how to jump into the van, so Kim lifted him. They took him home, and put him on high-quality food. He was so loving and gentle, they fell in love with him, and decided to keep him. He still doesn’t jump up on couches or beds, but he has learned to enjoy car rides. Unfortunately, he enjoys getting into garbage and counter-surfing, things Garfield doesn’t do – so they have to be careful. He is very gentle and calm, and has been a good influence on Garfield, and he is very good with the kids.

Reading about retired racers really doesn’t prepare a family for one. According to Kim, Greyhounds don’t sit, and you really can’t teach them tricks. They are quietly affectionate – Dawson barks or leans into people when he wants to be petted. Garfield sticks his head in your lap or armpit. Garfield is very curious. Dawson is more inclined to let the world go by and trust that everything will be fine. They eat a lot, and need high quality food because their metabolisms are so fast. Kim gives them raw bones every week to keep their teeth and gums healthy, which is easier than brushing their teeth every day. She can leave them for 10 hours without accidents, and doesn’t crate them. Garfield waits on the stair landing, so he can see her come home. Both love running at the off-leash dog park. She finds them beautiful, inside and out – very different from the image of a competitive racing machine.

Kim and her family did everything right. Dogs are long-term commitments and they didn’t pick one up on impulse. They did their homework to get a temperament that matched their lifestyle, and they rescued rather than going to a pet store.

When you’re considering bringing a new dog into your home and into your life, take your time and do your homework. If you don’t find one that matches your family’s needs at your local shelter, check into breed-specific rescue groups. There are lots of them out there with thousands of beautiful dogs who are waiting to find their perfect new families, families just like yours.

A special thank you to Kim for providing so much rich information for this post.

- Louise

Dogs love green tripe

2010-02-24T10:16:00.003-06:00

If you want to give your dogs something they’ll go ga ga about, try tripe.

White tripe is animal stomach. Green tripe includes the stomach’s content. It’s nasty stuff. My husband describes it as poop that hasn't hit the ground yet. I know – ewwww. It’s stinky. It’s called green tripe because it’s high in chlorophyll, but it’s actually more gray in colour.

It’s hard for any dog to resist the stuff. Even if they go on a hunger strike for most other foods, they’ll usually eat tripe either on its own or mixed in with other food.

You can buy it either canned or in fresh frozen patties from better pet food stores. I prefer the frozen stuff because there’s less stink involved when you feed it straight from the freezer.

Helping cats and dogs by fostering

2010-02-05T11:44:00.004-06:00

Louise and her husband Kev fostered the "Dumpster Babies" – Murphy, Moggy and Mona – kittens who were found in a dumpster. These furry little babies were so young that their eyes weren't even open – likely less than a week old. Without a foster family, they would certainly have died. Louise loaded up with kitten milk, tiny kitten baby bottles, and an armload of clean laundry, and brought the young kittens home. After two months, the little fur babies were growing like weeds, using a litter box and ready for adoption. All three were adopted very quickly. Louise was extremely proud when she saw one of them months later still growing, happy and thriving.

Fostering is a good way to try a new pet for those who can’t make full-time pet commitments. Louise and Kev didn't have any pets at the time and she had never had a pet cat before, so it was a good way to test the waters. (She now has Jake dog and Daisy cat of her own.) Likewise for frequent travelers, it’s also a great option to have pets around during the non-traveling seasons.

The hardest part of fostering is knowing that despite your best efforts and all of the resources available, sometimes very young kittens and puppies aren't strong enough to make it. Foster parents become very attached very quickly, and for the primary care giver, it can be heart wrenching when they pass away. The consolation is in knowing that their last days were spent, warm, fed and very loved.

There are also health factors to consider especially for households with existing pets. Animals needing fostering may have been exposed to diseases that can be communicable to other animals and difficult to treat. It’s definitely something to keep in mind.

Success is what keeps Louise fostering. “Although it is tough to let them go, it is the most satisfying feeling in the world to see how happy the pet and their ‘forever family’ are during the adoption process. It is a fantastic feeling knowing that you’ve made a difference, not only to the lives of the animals but to the lives of those people.” Louise and Kev will foster for rest of their lives.

If you’re interested in fostering dogs or cats, contact the Regina Humane Society. They’ll do a home check, discuss health protocols and legalities to set you and your foster animals up to live safely and happily ever after.

Poor Capone: dogs rupturing anterior cruciate ligaments

2010-01-19T20:44:00.009-06:00

This little guy blew his anterior cruciate ligament (ACL) and is scheduled for surgery in a couple of weeks. Late this fall, he started limping and got a prescription to help with the swelling and pain in the hope that with rest, he’d be ok. Unfortunately, the veterinarian diagnosed a ruptured ACL making his back leg joint unstable to the point where he can’t put weight on it.

Blowing an ACL is relatively common to otherwise healthy dogs. Dogs who normally love to run and play suddenly put little or no pressure on one of their back legs. When the ACL ruptures, the joint becomes unstable and functions abnormally – we call it the three legged dog.

If your dog is diagnosed with a torn ACL, your options range from limiting the dog’s mobility to a number of surgical procedures. Depending on the dog’s age and available budget, what our customers often opt for is the patented Tibial Plateau Leveling Osteotomy (TPLO).

As with any surgery, success isn’t guaranteed and varies on a case-by-case basis. Bakari (pictured above) who used to LOVE to run had this surgery, yet still has limited mobility.

If surgery is needed, the cost typically ranges between $2,200-$3,000 per leg with anaesthetic and medications, and if it happens to one leg, the other leg often goes too. One theory is that because the dog is favouring their bad leg, the extra burden makes the good leg go.

Ways to potentially avoid the painful and costly problem are to avoid obesity at all costs - exercise your dog and keep them fit and trim. Some times it just happens. If your dog has stiffness and very mild lameness, it could be early signs of early cruciate disease. Talk with your vet about your specific dog’s options relative to expected results, cost and recovery time.

Giving your dog a pill

2009-12-31T13:57:00.002-06:00

Lots of dogs get pills – either daily health supplements like glucosomine or fish oil, or occasional antibiotics or other medications.

Some dogs will simply take a pill that’s mixed with their food, while others meticulously eat around it or spit it up. Others will eat a pill that’s ground up then sprinkled on their food. While this option is good for supplements, because some of the pill is wasted at the bottom of the bowl, it may not be a good option for medications where exact doses are needed.

To make the task easier, tastier and more fun for your dog, pill pockets do the trick. Commercially available pill pockets are available at most pet stores and cost about 25 cents each. A more economical, home-made option is to use a slice of wiener. No dog can resist the amazing aroma and taste of a pill stuffed wiener. Give it a try and watch your dog’s eyes light up!

Lastly, when you find out that your dog needs a pill, be thankful that you have a dog, rather than a cat. With dogs, there’s far less hissing, biting and scratching. Anyone who has ever had to give a cat a pill knows exactly what I mean :)

Enjoying the festive season with your dog

2009-12-24T13:41:00.003-06:00

It’s the most wonderful time of the year. It’s also the time of the year where your over-excited dog can get into some extra special trouble. Here are a few quick tips to add a layer of safety over your Christmas fun:

Avoid decorating with tinsel. When ingested, it can wrap around intestines and cause internal damage. If you notice any tinsel near your pet’s anus, take your pet to the vet. Do not pull it out, as the tearing action can do more damage.
Keep seasonal toxic plants like poinsettia, holly and mistletoe out of your dog’s reach so they can avoid getting into it and having digestive troubles.
Never feed your dog cooked turkey bones. They’re brittle, can splinter and cause internal damage.
Chocolate is extremely toxic. We recommend that you eat it up as quickly as possible so your dog has no chance of getting into it :)

If your dog has any after-hours medical emergencies, we’re really lucky because 24/7 veterinary care is now available in Regina at the 24-Hour Animal Hospital. Keep their number handy in case of emergency - it's 306.761.1449.

We wish you and your furry family a very safe and merry Christmas!

Louise, Dan, Daisy and Buddy

Paying veterinary bills: an introduction to pet insurance

2009-12-16T11:55:00.003-06:00

One of our customers has two beautiful, typically boingy golden retrievers. Last year, both needed surgery. One suffered from bloat and torsion, then six months later, the other needed surgery for an intestinal obstruction. Total bill $6,000. Ouch!

A lot of people expect to pay for food, licensing, vaccinations and other basic services, but are caught off guard by the high cost of emergency medical care. We hear similar stories all the time. Monitoring after a stroke and multiple seizures $1,800. Anterior cruciate ligament surgery $2,500. Dental cleaning and extractions $750. Metacam prescription for one year $720.

Conversely, instead of paying for effective, but costly medical procedures pets are often surrendered or euthanized - this is known as “economic euthanasia”. Wouldn’t it be wonderful if a treatment decision would be about what’s best for the dog rather than what’s affordable at the moment? Planning ahead can give you peace-of-mind, save you money and, ultimately, may save your dog’s life.

One family we know, puts away $100 each month into their dogs’ savings account. This family’s previous dog had a lot of medical expenses during her golden years, so they’re planning ahead.

Some families can easily afford the bills and don’t worry too much. Both Money Sense Magazine (December/January 2011, page 11) and a Virginia veterinarian recommend that “If a bill of $10,000 or less would not place catastrophic strain on your family or if you are disciplined enough to regularly save for your pet’s future care, then pet insurance is probably not necessary.”

Other families choose pet insurance. Many pet insurance options are affordable when the pet is very young, but quite expensive for older dogs or multi-pet families, and typically excludes hereditary or pre-existing conditions. If you’re considering insurance, do some comparison shopping. Read the policy fine print to compare total costs, deductibles, co-pays and coverage limits, pre-existing problems and hereditary exclusions, and cancellation fees. Some policies also include third party property damage liability resulting from your pet’s actions. Watch out for policies that offer low policy caps as you may be left with a significant bill to pay. The Washington Office of the Insurance Commissioner publishes a list of questions to ask when pricing out pet insurance:

Can I choose my vet?
Is there a waiting period?
Do you cover routine wellness exams?
Do you cover neutering or spaying?
Does the plan include prescription drug coverage?
Do you cover claims annually or by incident?
If the coverage is by incident, is there a time limit?
Is there a dollar limit for vet office fees?
If my pet has a pre-existing or hereditary condition, will this plan cover it?
Does this plan cover chronic or recurring conditions?
How long do you take to pay claims?
Do you give discounts for insuring multiple pets?
Does this plan cover advertising costs and rewards if my pet is lost or stolen?
Does this plan make payouts if my pet is being treated and dies?

When doing comparison shopping, check out the Pet Insurance Review. This web site helps pet owners shop for pet insurance by getting customer reviews so you can see how satisfied or dissatisfied others are with their existing policies. And finally, to help you on your way, here’s a list of Canadian pet insurance providers: HBC , PC Financial (President’s Choice), Pet Care , Pet Plan, PetSecure, PurinaCare and Vetinsurance . (A USA list is available at http://www.petinsurancereview.com.)

Choosing how to finance your pet’s medical issues is a very personal decision. If you choose insurance, please do your homework to make sure you’re 100 percent certain about what you’re getting in exchange for what you’re paying.

Our tough Saskatchewan winters are awesome for your dog’s health

2009-12-12T14:01:00.003-06:00

Photo: Rocky at play

As you’re shivering your way through this nasty -30° C cold snap, you probably didn’t think about the good that it’s doing for your dog.

In addition to taking your breath away, this frigid weather kills nasty bugs that thrive in warmer climates. We don’t have much of a problem with fleas, and thankfully viruses like H3N8 Canine Influenza that crop up in warmer climates tend to be non-issues here in Canada.

If you take your dog traveling with you to warmer climates, talk with your vet about extra precautions you should take that may include additional vaccinations. If you’re staying home through the winter, grab a blanket and smile as you snuggle your healthy, happy dog.

The scoop on poop: dealing with doggie diarrhoea

2009-12-02T12:47:00.013-06:00

We got a call last week from a customer who wanted to send their two large dogs out for the weekend. It all sounded great until we asked the customer about medications and he mentioned that both dogs were being treated for Giardia. Stop right there – Giardia, otherwise known as Beaver Fever, is a zoonotic disease – meaning it’s one of many contagious diseases between people and animals. Needless to say, because of the risks, the dogs are not coming to our kennel.

If your dog has occasional diarrhoea, let them skip a meal, then for their first meal, serve cooked white rice – if you’d like, you can add a little chicken broth or cooked ground beef or turkey to it. If the stools return to normal, return to your normal feeding routine – if not, try the rice option another time.

However, if the diarrhoea persists or is recurring, take your dog along with a stool sample to your vet to find out if it’s something more serious. If it’s Giardia, vets typically treat it with a round of medication and recommend that your dog be isolated from other dogs. After the treatment, your vet will likely do one or more follow-up stool samples to check if it’s cleared.

Ways to minimize risks of you or your pet catching or transmitting Giardia or other zoononic diseases include:

Keep hands clean. Properly wash your hands after contacting animals – use soap and water, scrub for at least 20 seconds, then rinse well. When soap and water are not available, use hand sanitizers.
Don’t let dogs drink from standing water such as puddles, ponds or lakes, or “community” sources that other dogs have access to.

Don’t let your dog lick you – especially around your nose and mouth areas. Avoid contacting your pet’s mouth, nose and feet. Dogs can pick up disease on their foot pads, then if you shake a paw, those diseases can transfer to you. Keep your hands away from your mouth, nose or face including not letting your children pick their noses, suck their thumbs or chew their finger nails.
Scoop poop immediately. Don’t let your dog sniff other dog’s poop. Use gloves when poop scooping, and wash hands immediately after handling it.
If your dog has diarrhoea, don’t let other dogs come into contact. Until it’s cleared, avoid dog parks, training classes or kennels. If your dog has had Giardia, disclose that fact and ensure that it’s clear before returning to these places.
Give your dog minimal contact with the floor and exterior grounds areas around animal shelters and veterinary clinics. If you volunteer at a shelter, keep your footwear, dog crates and vehicles clean between your shelter visits and your home.
If you’re sick, reduce contact with your pet and cough into your sleeve rather than your hands. If you’re immunosuppressed, ask your vet about using “killed vaccines” rather than “modified live vaccines” for your pet.
Don’t pet stray or unknown animals. If you go to petting zoos, don’t eat or drink, or take items like baby bottles or soothers, and wash your hands and shoes immediately after.
Focus on hygiene. Trim the hair around your dog’s anus and genital area, and keep them clean so micro-organisms aren’t carried around. Keep your dog’s bedding areas clean and dry.

If you’re interested in this topic, two excellent sources of additional information are the Worms and Germs Blog and a back-dated Animal Sheltering Magazine article.

Living with dogs and kids

2009-11-20T20:36:00.003-06:00

I’ve always loved animals. That’s my first dog King. He was my protector and my friend. I was always the kid who asked for cats and dogs – anything furry would do. For a while, my parents said “no” to pets, then I started keeping baby field mice in our porch. That's how I got Kitty and my dog Chuckie.

If you watch movies – especially Disney movies – dogs and kids always get along. In real life, it’s not always that way. Dogs are not people – every one of them has a bite threshold. For some, it’s short, for others, it’s long, but any dog can bite.

If you’re bringing a new baby into your life, you can prepare your dog for baby’s arrival in a lot of ways - read up about the topic, get into a post-baby routine before the baby arrives, tug at the dog as a child would, and scent the dog’s toys with almond oil to distinguish them from baby toys. Groups like Dogs and Storks have lots of useful information and tips.

And it’s also important to teach your children how to behave around dogs. While your own dog may be fabulous with kids, it’s best that they know what to do around strange dogs.

If you’re worried that your dog will hurt your young child, it may be in everyone’s best interests to find another home for your dog. Living in fear is not an option. Our own dog Buddy came to live with us because of that kind of situation, and its turned out to be the best thing for that family, our family, and for our Buddy.

If you’re interested in this topic, here are some additional resources:

Canine IQ test

Regarding Rover Podcast

Wall Street Journal article

DogGoneSafe Bite prevention rules

Learning about pet first aid

2009-11-14T20:23:00.002-06:00

Last weekend I taught the Walks N Wags Pet First Aid class to a group of dog lovers – pet sitters, kennel operators/breeders, a dog sledder (who has 60 dogs of her own), a pet retailer, dog trainers, and a bunch of folks who simply love their pets.

Taking this class is a great way to learn about preventing health problems, and to stay calm and have confidence when dealing with illness and injury. A lot of people access pet first aid information, but there’s nothing quite like concentrating, practicing and talking about it for 10 hours to really understand it and feel comfortable in an emergency.

The next Regina class is February 20 and 21, 2010. To register, call the Regina Humane Society at 543-6363 ext 221. If you’re in BC, Alberta, Ontario and New York, check out a complete list of dates.

You can also check out more photos from the class.

Reducing your dog’s environmental paw print

2009-10-25T11:38:00.005-06:00

“Be the change you wish to see in the world.”

- Gandhi

Lots of people are getting onto the environmental bandwagon by reducing, reusing, recycling and recovering, but often don’t think about making environmentally friendly choices for their pets. There are lots of little things that you can do to make a big difference.

When getting a new pet, start the reuse cycle by adopting a shelter or rescue dog.

Buy quality, bulk, minimally packaged food and treats – or make your own using fresh, locally sourced ingredients. In addition to being healthier overall, quality food creates less poo. Recycle pet food cans and plastic packaging.

Speaking of poo, clean up after your dog, using biodegradable bags, and rather than sending your poo to the landfill, set up a backyard compost station.

Support local vendors who produce earth-friendly food and toys. But don’t get green-washed - ask questions to find out how many kilometres their product travels to reach you to move between manufacturer, warehouse, retailer and you. Often there’s a lot of back-tracking, so the product is far less environmentally friendly than you may have thought it to be.

Select long-lasting toys. My dog Daisy goes through stuffed toys way too quickly – but a Kong stuffed with peanut butter or frozen kibble lasts.

Use earth-friendly shampoos and grooming products.

Use natural and safe parasite treatments instead of toxic chemicals. Natural isn’t always safe, so make sure that you understand what you’re putting on your dog. Before you treat with anything, if you don’t understand it, ask your vet about it.

Choose collars, leashes and clothing made with environmentally friendly fabrics like hemp.

Use towels and blankets as bedding from second-hand stores. Get creative by transforming those towels and blankets into artistic, original, hand-made dog beds.

Take long walks. It’s a great way to bond with your dog, while avoiding more environmentally un-friendly entertainment choices. While you’re out, bring a filled and lidded-water bowl so you don’t need to purchase environmentally unfriendly, bottled water.

When packing your dog’s bags when going on vacation, rather than using plastic baggies for their toys, treats and food, use reusable, washable packaging.

When you buy and do anything, rethink it to discover more earth-friendly options.

Bond with your dog using positive training methods

2009-10-17T20:48:00.013-06:00

Our first Golden Retriever Gryphon came to live with us in the eighties. We were young. We didn’t know what to do for him. We enrolled him in puppy kindergarten and thoroughly loved the experience. In addition to great early socialization Gryphon learned the basics of sit, stay, come and heel. We liked it so much that we signed up for the next class. What an eye-opener. The instructor told us to stick a dumbbell into his mouth, then pinch his ear until he held the weight. We couldn’t do it. We left and never went back. We couldn’t believe that good dog training included pain.

Years later with Daisy and Buddy we discovered agility. We had fun learning clicker training, playing games and exercising their minds. Then the new instructor yelled at Daisy until she cowered and hid in her crate. Agility was supposed to be a fun, bonding experience, and Daisy obviously wasn’t having fun. We left.

Today, I attended an incredibly wonderful workshop with Sue Ailsby. Working with dogs and llamas, Sue has experience with just about every competition possible. She’s wonderful. She believes that balanced dogs do things because they want to please you – and when you’re pleased, their world is full of good things. Her fundamentals are teach them to learn, reward their good behaviour, and ignore everything else. Within five minutes and without a word being spoken or negative correction applied, we watched Stitches (Sue’s companion show, sport, and service dog) figure out how to weave under a chair, then sit proudly on it.

Training can be a positive bonding experience for you and your dog. To learn about Sue’s BOOK of TRAINING LEVELS, visit her web site at http://bit.ly/g58Vh. When you research your local training options, look for instructors who use positive methods such as clickers, treats and affection, and avoid those who use corrections, choke chains and aggression to dominate their dogs.

Homeopathic Care for Cats and Dogs: Small doses for small animals

2009-10-14T12:49:00.007-06:00

Book Review

In this book, author Don Hamilton, DVM, discusses his transformation from conventional to homeopathic veterinarian. Early in his 20-year practice, he grew increasingly frustrated when dealing with chronic disease, such as ear and skin infections, that would not respond to conventional treatment.

Dr. Hamilton provides his thoughts around the “limitation of conventional medicine”, the theory of health and disease, specific condition treatments, an in-depth discussion about vaccination, and finally, individual medicines (remedies). The forward is written by renowned homeopathic veterinarian Dr. Richard Pitcairn whose endorsement lends credibility.

Reading this book is not a substitute for veterinary care. It should be used to help inform so you can better communicate with your veterinarian. While some people claim to practice homeopathy on animals, it’s important to choose a licensed/regulated veterinarian who understands animal physiology and medicine. To locate a homeopathic veterinarian, visit the Academy of Veterinary Homeopathy web site at www.theavh.org.

Feeding dogs bones: the great debate

2009-10-03T16:42:00.017-06:00

Williston runs on bones. This little beagle regularly chows down on bones and is pretty happy about life. Now if you want to start a great debate, ask a room full of dog people, including veterinarians, about feeding bones. Controversy ensues, and no one agrees.

Proponents of feeding bones talk about the benefits:

Healthy teeth – chewing bones scrapes plaque from teeth, keeping gums healthy, which keeps breath fresh and eliminates unhealthy and expensive dental cleanings. (Unhealthy because dogs need to be sedated for most dental procedures.)

Exercise – eating bones is a full body experience for a dog – they get right into it, holding the bone down with their paws and tugging at it through their back and shoulders with their jaws

An outlet for chewing – particularly for young dogs who are teething, most will chose to nosh down on a raw bone instead of your favourite piece of furniture

Nutritious – provides calcium and other nutrients

Entertainment value– chewing bones is an endurance activity where dogs spend hours at it making their days happily pass by

Opponents talk about the risks of feeding bones:

Serious health problems – choking or gastrointestinal obstruction (GI) occur when bone splinters or chunks break off and lodge in the dog’s throat restricting breathing, or somewhere in the dog’s intestines causing life-threatening circulatory problems

Bacteria – ingesting bones brings salmonella and parasites into your home that can infect your dog and family

Cracked or broken teeth – vigorous bone chewing can break pieces of teeth causing pain and expense

Digestive problems – dogs vomit or get diarrhoea from eating bones

Obesity – dogs eat too much, then get fat

Aggression – by eating raw bones, dogs become aggressive

I'd love to find some science-based information on this heavily debated topic.

In my opinion RAW bones – never cooked or smoked - are good for some, but not all dogs for the reasons stated above. Cooked bones are much more likely to splinter and cause harm and should never be served.

Most dog toys and treats are not government regulated, so many of the negatives that can happen with bones, can happen with other pet-store supplied goods. Really, how healthy is that pig’s ear you just fed your dog?

Bones can cause serious health problems, and so can lots of other things. We know of dogs that have eaten rocks, bath towels, Power Rangers and baby soothers that have gotten lodged in their intestines. All of these needed veterinary care and in some cases painful and expensive and surgery – and in one case, death. There are risks, and those risks are present every day when you live with a dog.

If your dog gets digestive problems, cut back on the amount of bone you’re serving – it’s likely the rich marrow that’s causing the problem.

Obese dogs are given too many calories. Those calories can come from food, treats or bones. It’s up to humans to provide suitable serving sizes.

Aggression and food aggression in particular is not caused by bones. All dogs should be trained to give items, including food and bones, to their people.

If you want to serve bones as part of your dog’s diet:

Buy raw bones with meat attached. If you’re unsure, go to a specialty pet store and they can guide you in the right direction. Keep the marrow, and remove large chunks of fat. The serving size should be appropriate to your dog’s size.

To minimize bacteria issues, feed bones, and all meals for that matter, in a place away from people– eg. outside or on a washable mat. In the book Not Fit for a Dog, Veterinarian Michael Fox recommends scalding raw bones to reduce the risk.

When giving bones or other foods or toys, supervise your dog so you know they’re ingesting properly and not choking.

Do your own research and make choices that are right for you and your dog. If you love heated, controversial debates, next time you’re out with dog people, bring the topic up.

Identifying when your dog has a serious health problem

2009-09-24T22:53:00.003-06:00

Jessie was alert, but seemed lazy. I checked her gums and they went white and stayed white. I rushed her to the vet, who diagnosed her as having a tumour that was blocking her circulation.

Three-year old Zack was unsteady on his feet and lethargic. I checked his gums and they went brick red. I rushed him to the vet, who said he had suffered a stroke.

Your dog’s gums are a window to their health. If you suspect a medical problem, lift your dog’s lip and press the gums just above their teeth. By doing this the blood is forced out of the small capillaries under the skin, and you’re able to see the “capillary refill time”. If the gums stay white or take two seconds or more to return to their normal pink colour, or if the gums are bright, firey red, your dog could be experiencing a serious medical emergency.

If you suspect your dog is ill, check their gums. If they don’t return to their normal colour quickly, get immediate veterinary care.