My dog never gets out – right! Help your pets find their way home.

Three days. That's the amount of time your lost dog has before he or she is legally someone else's property. Bet you didn't know that. The provincial Animal Protection Act and City of Regina by-laws are very clear about ownership. While it seems a little harsh, it makes sure that animals are cared for rather than homeless.

Time and time again animal shelters hear the same story, “I didn't get a license because my dog or cat never gets out.” All it takes is once, and you've got a problem. That's why identification is so important – it's your pets best chance of finding their way back home. In Regina it also increases the number of days that your pet is your property from three to 10. There are lots of identification options with lots of pros and cons, so it's best for your pets to wear a bunch:

• Tattoos - anyone can see that they're dealing with an owned dog. However, over time, they become difficult to read. And, if you've got a “used” dog who has already been tattooed, contact the veterinary clinic who did the original tattoo so they can update their files with your contact information.

• Microchips are very permanent. However, they must be read using a scanner so they're not accessible for Joe Public to easily check. As well, some times the chip travels from the insertion point to other parts of the body, so they can be missed even by those who regularly use the scanners.

• City licenses – typically connect your dog with the their most current owner contact information. However, they can fall off, so it's important to make sure they're tightly hooked to the collar. As a side benefit, they often they include a “get out of jail free card” saving you lots of money if your pet gets out and turns up a shelter.

• Store-bought ID tags that contain name and contact numbers are great for people who live in areas without licensing bylaws like me. They're easy to read by anyone.

• ID collars – because your dog's name and your phone number are embroidered onto the collar, they're easy to read. (Using a sharpie marker on a plain collar works too.) However, the collars themselves can fall off especially if your dog looses weight, or if it's loose.

• Rabies tags – because this vaccine is highly controlled, this extra tag can lead your dog back home.

You can be proactive by keeping a file on each pet that contains all of their information - identification markings, health records, photographs, etc. A more high-tech option is to register your pets in advance on PetLynx. They connect lost and found dogs to owners, animal shelters, municipal animal services, and others. By creating a profile for each of your pets in advance, should they ever become lost, you won't waste time searching for their vital information and photos, you can simply change their status to lost and be connected to matching found dogs. They offer a free seven day trial, and have different upgrade packages.

If you lose your pet, be proactive – quickly! Because animals roam, it's important to contact your local and surrounding area humane societies and municipalities. By having your pets wear lots of identification, checking in with municipalities, and doing your own lost dog posting, you're more likely to help your pet come back home.

The $1,600 Dieffenbachia plant: helping your pet avoid poisonous plants

Blossom is a very, very lucky girl. One day while home alone, she decided to graze on some leafy greens. Unfortunately, her choice was the toxic Diefenbachia plant. After work, her mom noticed a drooling, wheezing, non-responsive dog with blue hazing over her eyes (she said she looked like a fish does before it dies!), so she rushed Blossom off to her veterinarian. $1,600 later, Blossom was fine, and plant simply had a good pruning.

The toxic Diefenbachia plant before Blossom ate it

When dogs eat this type of plant, their esophagus swells and they suffocate to death. Unfortunately, the German shepherd and black lab, who were at the same clinic earlier ate only two leaves from similar plants. Both died.

When you live with pets and plants, toxicity should be top of mind because lots of house and garden plants are toxic to pets. I love dogs, and plants. As a University of Saskatchewan Prairie Horticulture Certificate program graduate, my tip for you is that when you live with pets and bring plants into your life, be cautious.

Here's what being cautious looks like. I live on an acreage and can always use more plants. Last summer, a friend offered me some perennial Solomon's seal plants. Right away, I accepted. My next move was to figure out this plant. I Googled it to find out its Latin name, which is Polygonatum, and quickly discovered that it's toxic to dogs, which made my planting location really easy – I would bring it in, but keep in a dog-free area of my yard.

Because many plants are location-specific - eg. what we grow in Saskatchewan is different than what is grown in California - there's no one “go-to” source for information about plant/pet toxicity. Most plants have at least two names, and more than likely many names. For example, Saskatchewanians are very proud of our saskatoon berry, which is just one of its “common names”. However, the “Latin name” for this plant is Amelanchier alifolia, and other common names for exactly the same plant are serviceberry, sarvice berry, Juneberry and shadebush. After doing the research, I wouldn't let my dogs eat Saskatoons or chew on the bush. According to the Government of Canada “The shrub has an hydrogen cyanide (HCN) potential high enough to kill cattle and mule deer. Mule deer that ingested 1 kg of fresh weight per day were poisoned and died within 24 h of the appearance of clinical signs”.

Know and research the common and Latin names of plants your dog has access to - this goes for both indoor house plants and outdoor petscaping. When it doubt, err on the side of caution.Here are some additional resources to help you out:

Government of Canada

Pet Poison Helpline

ASPCA Poison Control Centre

Doggie dental hygiene: their teeth are in your hands

Eli is 10 years old and has only one tooth. This little guy was recently adopted by a Regina family, and he obviously had bad teeth. Periodontal (gum disease) is one of the most common dog diseases, and is often preventable.

Tartar and plaque build up, then the gums recede, and infection starts. It’s nasty. Serious dental issues seem to be more common in small dogs than large. It’s often diet related – created by a soft food diet . . . think Cesar supplemented with lots of soft treats. Although they like the taste, the dog’s teeth get coated with food without ever getting a good scrubbing. Soft food is ok, but dogs need crunchy stuff too. (I know they get this stuff because their people love them, but loving them through food can hurt them.)

Unfortunately we see a lot of dogs with dental issues.

What you’ll notice with gum disease is nasty mouth odour when things get infected, and the cost of dental cleanings and extractions. A lot of people pay hundreds and thousands of dollars to fix the problem. However, some people chose not to fix it – that’s mean. I don’t know about you, but I’ve had dental infections, and they hurt – a lot. I can’t imagine the pain that some of these dogs live with. (Dr. Paddy Khuly, a veterinarian blogger, suggests that people who chose not to fix their dog’s mouth infections otherwise known as medical neglect should be charged with animal cruelty. Think about that.) Unfortunately, if the problem isn’t treated early, older dogs may have to suffer in pain for the reminder of their lives because using anesthetic on older dogs can be deadly.

Unless it’s genetic or caused by accident, so many dental problems are preventable. While tooth brushing is an option, I don’t know of many who make the effort to do it. Good on you if you do. Providing your dog with crunchy stuff is a good alternative. The Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) awards a registered seal of approval for products that are clinically proven to control plaque and tartar. Frankly, everyone trying to sell you something claims their product helps, but products on this list are tested and scored using established protocols – so they're scientifically proven, not just a marketing claim. There is one caution here – VOHC tests for plaque and tarter control, they don’t test products to determine if they're otherwise healthy or safe.

For many dogs, chewing raw (never cooked) bones or elk antlers works well too. Keep in mind that anything designed to be chewed may break and cause intestinal problems or injury. Most dogs enjoy chewing, and typically spend a few minutes chewing rather than bolting it down whole or in large pieces. However, you know your dog – if they don’t chew thoroughly, don’t give it to them. And, if you notice sharp edges or small pieces, take it away.

Talk with your veterinarian about what’s best for your dog. And, check your dog’s mouth regularly for signs of tartar or plaque build-up or infection. When it comes to your dog’s dental health, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Puparazzi: Taking action photographs of your dog

Even an expressive, jet black dog like Wilson takes a great photo
with the right lighting and camera angle.

I’m pretty excited - I bought a new camera last week – the main reason – to take doggie photos. I love taking pictures of happy dogs – and people tend to like my photos too, so here are a few of my learn-as-I-go tips. I’m a point-and-shoot kind of gal, so this is about what you're shooting, not how to use your camera. Don’t expect anything that’ll help you set your aperture and IS0 – you’re on your own for the technical stuff.

Most photos need three basic ingredients – a happy dog, a pretty location and sunshine – with you being on the right spot to focus the shot. These tips work really well for black dogs, who are sometimes more difficult to photograph.

Start with one happy dog. You are their everything – they watch you, they come to you for treats, hugs and to know that their world is safe. Know what your dog loves – treats, running, balls, toys, belly rubs – and work with it. If they like to play chase, play chase. And on the flip side, watch for hackles up or calming signals that tell you your dog isn’t happy – ears back, lip licking without you luring with a treat, yawning, etc. If you see any of that, first focus on calming your dog to make them happy, then try the photo thing much later. Use every moment – even photo taking – to reinforce training by rewarding good behaviours such as coming and sitting, and by completely ignoring and walking away from any undesirable behaviours such as jumping and barking.

Pick your location and set up your background. Look at your environment and pick a background for your photo. In our kennel yard, I like “framing” the dogs with grass, trees and fields in the background, rather than the building and parking lot. By doing that, the dog is the main topic in the photo. Watch for distractions too. In my yard, if I take the photo from the wrong angle, it looks like a tree is growing out of the dog’s head – like antlers.

It could have been a great photo of Bailey,
but there's a horrible tree growing out of her head!

Use sunshine as your helper. For best results, the sun should be to your back or side. Because it creates dark shadows on their face, never face the sun when taking your dog’s photo. I find that early or late in the day creates the nicest facial shadows. Photographs taken at mid-day or just before dusk can have some odd lighting and cast some unflattering shadows. Watch how your own shadow enters the photograph. I’ve got countless images where my own shadow looks like a looming zombie attacking the poor dog! Taking photos on cloudy days is OK, but never as good as on a sunny one.

Be on your dog’s level. My best action photos are where I’m with the dog on their level – where I squat, sit or even lay down on the ground. After their initial energy burst, most dogs tend to come looking for you– they want to be with you. When you’re on their level, you catch the best facial expressions. For your own safety, it's best to always pay full attention to your dog when they're enjoying any off-leash freedom. Adolescent dogs in particular can get carried away and plow into you - especially if you're down at their level - so it's best that you always know where they are and keep an agile, ready-to-go-in-any-direction stance (and duck and hide your head).

My two typical photos are running dog and sitting pretty.

For running dog photos, simply photograph them enjoying their run. Another way to get interesting expressions is to walk with your dog, and when they’re not paying attention run in the opposite direction (towards the sun), turn around quickly, then snap another photo of them running towards you.

Lacey is my little darling who always comes running to me.

For sitting pretty photographs, you need treats or something they love - like a ball. Once the dog has had a bunch of fun, reward them for sitting with a couple of treats, then hold a treat by the camera lens. Voila – you’ve got them posing for their picture.

Buddy sits pretty for a tasty duck jerky treat.

Focus the shot. Famous hockey player Wayne Gretzky skated to where the puck was going (rather than to where it was) … photographing dogs is a lot like that. Watch your dog’s movement, then aim and focus your camera where you think they’ll run – rather than to where they are. When your dog runs through that spot, click, you’ve got them. Trying to catch up to your dog to focus while your dog is running usually results in a blur.

Getting a great shot of Ashley is all about
anticipating where the dog is going, not where she is.

Finally, don’t get fixated. Have some fun, take a few photos, then put the camera away and have more fun. Don’t get frustrated if you don’t get that perfect shot – after all, it’s about being with and enjoying your dog – and tomorrow is another day.

If you’ve got any other helpful tips, please share – I’d love to hear about them.

Doggie Vaccination 101: understanding what’s right for your dog

My nine-year old goldens, Daisy and Buddy recently went for their annual veterinarian health check-up. After a thorough going over, Buddy got his rabies booster vaccination, and both dogs had blood drawn for their annual titer tests.

This post is for general information. Please consult with your veterinarian about your dog’s health care and vaccination needs.

If you want to start a debate between dog people, bring up the topic of food or vaccinations. Even the vets don’t agree - I don’t point this out as a bad thing –they all have different training and practical experience. There are so many opinions, and everyone is firmly entrenched in their beliefs. You’d think that something that claims to be science-based would be easy, but it’s not.

At our kennel we see many people – especially first time dog guardians – who aren’t sure what to do even after talking with their vet; for example, they get one vaccination and think they’re done, when in fact they need additional boosters and their rabies shot. If you’re new to doggie parenting, here’s vaccination 101 to help you sift through it all.

Puppies and unvaccinated or improperly vaccinated dogs are at the highest risk of infection (if I had a new puppy, I would be extremely careful around areas where dogs congregate. I would carry it into the vet’s office so it wouldn’t be exposed to anything nasty that could be lurking in the parking lot or clinic itself). Dogs who socialize with other dogs at parks, grooming shops, dog training facilities, dog shows, doggie day cares and boarding kennels are at a greater risk of disease exposure. Dogs who interact with wildlife have a greater risk of rabies exposure. Vaccination is proven to minimize risk.

There are several different canine vaccinations your vet can choose from. In our part of Saskatchewan, veterinarians typically recommend a series of three to four shots for some combination of these diseases:

• Canine adenovirus
• Distemper
• Infectious canine hepatitis
• Parinfluenza
• Parvovirus (Parvo)
• Rabies
  

By vaccinating against distemper, parainfluenza, and adenovirus, dogs are protected against the respiratory disease Infectious Tracheobronchitis. Veterinarians may or may not recommend vaccination against Bordetalla or other vaccines depending on their philosophies towards vaccination and your dog’s risk factors. Risk factors are based on your pet’s lifestyle and geographic area where specific diseases may be prevalent. For example, a dog that lives in a city apartment is at much less of risk of contracting Leptospirosis than a rural dog who is exposed to raccoons.

After the puppy vaccines, your veterinarian will create a schedule of revaccination that includes the core vaccines – distemper, parvovirus (parvo) and rabies boosters, along with other non-core vaccines. If you check your dog’s vaccination certificate you’ll see a expiry dates for either disease names or some combination D, H and P's. (This is not to be confused with the vaccination expiry date – otherwise known as the best before date on the vaccine itself.)

Depending on where you live, there are laws that govern rabies vaccination. If you’re traveling with your pet for pleasure or to move, make sure you understand the vaccination requirements for different countries, provinces and states. Likewise, there are no common standards for boarding kennel vaccination protocols, so based on their experience and judgement, everyone does things a little bit different. If you’re boarding your dog, understand the specific vaccination policies for each of the kennels you plan on using.

Bordetella is the interesting vaccination. Some veterinarians encourage this vaccination – and some discourage it saying that it’s not overly effective. Some kennels insist on it, others don’t. Our perspective is that we admit dogs who are vaccinated according to their veterinarian’s wishes. In the best interest of the dog’s health, we won’t contradict a veterinarian’s recommendation. They’re the professionals in this matter, not us. The Bordatella vaccine is typically given as a nasal spray or injected vaccination with a booster. We like to think about it as being very similar to the flu shot for people. Some people get it, some don’t. Most often if a dog gets kennel cough, it’s like a person getting a common cold – uncomfortable, but for healthy dogs not life-threatening.

Other vaccinations and preventative treatments are more location-based. For example, ten years ago my dog would get the heartworm pill. However, given that there has only been one confirmed Saskatchewan originating case of Heartworm (and that dog was imported from the southern states), today my veterinarian doesn’t recommend heartworm treatment for my dogs.

The Controversy

Now here’s where it gets really interesting. Vaccination manufacturers needed to prove that the vaccines are effective for one year, which they did. What no one has proven though is how long those vaccinations are effective for – one, three, five years – or possibly a lifetime. As well, what also hasn’t been proven is the negative impact of over-vaccination. There is growing evidence that chronic illness increases with vaccination repetition and, although rare, reactions and complications occur.

Changing Protocols

Most veterinarians used to revaccinate annually. Because of new information, many, but not all clinics, are changing to a more customized approach based on each individual dog. Many dogs are now on a three-year protocol, get vaccinations postponed if ill, and stop vaccinating after the dog is geriatric – typically around ten years of age. Some veterinarians give all three vaccines at once, and others give parvo one year, distemper the next, and rabies during the third year. That way the dog still gets their very important annual health check-up, but doesn’t get vaccinated for things they don’t need. Not all clinics have adopted these new approaches.

Some veterinarians now offer alternatives to “regular” vaccinations. By drawing blood to do a titer test otherwise known as a serologic titer, they measure antibody response to a specific disease. Some diseases have been studied enough to know what level of antibody protects against that disease. This level is called a "protective titer." In Saskatchewan, they typically titer test for distemper and parvo. To get a rabies titer, your dog’s blood sample needs to be shipped all the way to Kansas, so it’s rarely done here.

To save money, some people choose to vaccinate their own dogs. I’m not at all keen on that. Vaccines must be handled in very specific ways (refrigerated), and be administered correctly to healthy animals. By self-administering, there is a greater risk to your dog because of product deterioration due to poor handling by the shipper, wholesaler, retailer or you, and ineffectiveness due to improper injection. As well, veterinarians are trained to ask the right questions about your dog’s health – and keep abreast of changing standards and protocols.

Some people choose not to vaccinate. That is a choice you can make. However, before making that decision, talk with a shelter worker who has experienced a distemper outbreak, or who has watched a “parvo puppy” suffer and die. As well, by making the choice to not vaccinate without your veterinarian’s blessing, you’re also making the choice to not board, groom or train your dog at a professional facility.

Daisy’s titer counts came back within range, and Buddy’s parvo is ok and distemper is lower than last year. We’ve got an appointment with our veterinarian to talk about whether he needs a distemper booster this year, or if it can wait another year. Because the kennel we take them to while we go away on vacation insists on Bordatella, both dogs will get the nasal vaccination in October. My veterinarian doesn’t recommend Bordatella for my two, so if that kennel didn’t insist, they wouldn’t get it.

My recommendation is that you know your dog, their environment and their lifestyle and travel risk factors – consult with your veterinarian to create a vaccination system that reduces risk and improves your dog’s quality of life, then, watch for and let your vet know of any post-vaccination symptoms.

If you’re interested in this topic, here are some additional useful resources:

• American Veterinary Medical Association
• Over-Vaccination-Dog Owners Beware in Whole dog journal, August 2010 edition
• Nancy Kay, DVM, Vaccinations for Your Dog: A Complex Issue On Healthypet.com, sponsored by the American Animal Hospital Association
• Dr. Patty Khuly, VMD – Fully Vetted Blog: Rabies vaccines or Vaccination location post
• Will Falconer, DVM - Vaccinations: A Word of Caution for our animals

Book Review: It’s me or the dog: How to have the perfect Pet

In my opinion, this is an exceptional how-to book for dog people.

The author Victoria Stilwell is a dog-trainer who stars in the TV series It’s me or the dog. She uses positive techniques to train and build relationships with dogs, and helps dogs think on their own without having to physically manipulate, yell or scold, or otherwise be a brute to them. I love that she has a kind, calm approach that clearly demonstrates that you don’t need to “dominate” to train. As a bonus, the format is easy-to-read and is visually interesting, making this book accessible for even non-readers.

Highlights of the book are that it:

• provides a very good overview about how dogs communicate
• explains calm assertive, rather than aggressive manipulative approaches
• gives very specific step-by-step instructions to train people in basic obedience skills such as sit, stay, come and impulse control
• gives instructions that motivate dogs to think and want to do things because of the pleasurable consequences, rather than forcing them
• offers solutions to unwanted behaviours like barking, leash pulling, biting, marking (peeing), and separation anxiety
• without being preachy, explains basic animal welfare issues like avoiding pet store puppy-mill puppies, spay/neutering, choke chains/collars, shock collars and sheltering

Where this book is light is in its coverage of food and nutrition. I agree with Ms Stilwell’s overall recommendation to improve the nutritional quality of your dog’s diet. However, given that different dogs have different nutritional requirements based on their age, breed, activity level and health issues, and given that scientists, including veterinarians and small animal nutritionists can’t agree, I don’t trust her specific recommendations. (For example, my veterinarian recommends raw and Ms Stilwell says no to raw ... I trust my vet's recommendation.)

In summary, read this book, use her training techniques, ignore her specific advice about food, and talk with your veterinarian about how to improve the quality of your dog’s diet.

You can also access some practical training tips at Victoria’s web sites at http://positively.com and http://animal.discovery.com/tv/its-me-or-dog/, and follow her on Facebook and Twitter.

This book is available at any book store and the Regina Public Library.

Being safe: It’s dog bite prevention week

Crating your kids is one proven way to make sure a dog won’t bite them. (My now teenage nephews are going to kill me for posting this photo.)

Plenty of evidence shows that large breed, un-neutered male dogs that are chained and treated irresponsibly are the most likely to cause serious and fatal bites. So logic flows that if you have sterilized your dog and treat it responsibly, you’re off to a great start. But that’s just a start. Dogs have very few ways to tell you that they’re scared. They have specific body language and teeth. Every dog has a bite threshold, and you can do quite a few things to minimize the risks.

Introductions are really important. Train your child to behave around their dog so they:

• ask permission before touching a strange dog, “be a tree”, remain calm and avoid eye contact
• don’t squeal, run, take the dog’s stuff including food and toys, startle the dog when sleeping, give neck hugs

There are great online resources for parents and educators. Here are some particularly good ones:

• http://www.rch.org.au/emplibrary/safetycentre/DogsAndKidsV3.pdf
• http://www.be-a-tree.com/
• http://www.getdogsmart.com/

For older children, involve them in your dog’s formal training program. And, teach your children not to tease a chained or tethered dog. That’s one of the best ways to turn a good dog into an aggressive one.

There are also lots of things you can do to help your dog too:

1. Pick the right pet for your family. They’ve got different energy levels and emotional drivers. Make sure you research what you’re getting before you bring one home.
2. Socialize them to people of all ages when young. The more types of people your dog is exposed to, the better. Young. Old. Large. Small. Men. Women. Bearded. Bald. Everyone.
3. Train your dog. The canine good citizen test outlines 10 manners that your dog should comfortably do. Use this as a benchmark for your dog’s training routine.
   
4. Spay/neuter your pet to calm the hormones down.
5. Watch for warning signs from any dog –hackles are raised (hair goes up on its back), stiff posturing, lip smacking, growling, backing away, half-moon eyes or a hard stare.
6. Always supervise children around dogs. Dogs are animals, not people and never forget that.
7. Train your dog to react calmly around strangers especially the milk man, postal workers, meter readers, and others who show up regularly.
8. Teach a soft bite so if they ever do feel the need to bite, it’ll be a warning rather than a serious incident.
9. Protect your pet from harms way. Don’t let anyone do anything to your dog that could make it become scared, then aggressive.
10. If your dog has bitten, train them and manage them so they’re not put into a position to bite again.
    

When you take on the responsibility of a dog, you’re morally and legally responsible for its actions. Learn what you can, train your dog, and teach your children to behave around them so you can minimize your risks.

Feeding your dog healthy, fresh food

Home-made dog biscuits: Grain-free peanut butter chip drop cookies

If you want to start a heated debate among dog people, two controversial topics you can bring up are food and vaccinations. Even among vets, breeders and others who work day-to-day with dogs, there is no consensus. This posting is about food – I’ll do another one about vaccinations later.

The most common types of doggie diets are store-bought processed, raw, grain-free and combination diets. Some believe that only foods created using the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) standards are considered safe and nutritionally balanced. Others believe that dogs should be fed raw meat and bones with fresh fruits and vegetables. Yet others prefer grain-free diets. Some do a blend.

My views aren’t extreme. I believe that like people, no one diet works for every dog. Your dog’s lifestyle, genetics and overall health make their food requirements unique. An elite-athlete sled dog has different nutritional and caloric needs than a toothless, couch potato, geriatric miniature poodle. Likewise, dogs with food allergies or medical conditions need special diets. I also don’t believe that serving processed food is always best. My problem with processed foods is that you’re often paying for a low-quality ingredients, a high water volume and environmentally unfriendly packaging.

My personal preference is a raw diet supplemented with fresh foods. I put some caveats on that though. It’s essential to know what items are toxic to dogs. Everything should be fed in moderation. You wouldn’t live on one food item, nor should your dog. It's important to balance food types over time, rather than at each meal. And, watch to not include toxic ingredients.

Some people will argue that feeding people food makes dogs mooch or get fat. I disagree. Dogs mooch because of where you feed them, not what you feed them. If you feed your dog in the kitchen or at the dinner table, they’ll mooch. If you feed them in their spaces, they won’t. They mooch if they’re rewarded by doing it. And, unless there is a medical condition, they get fat when feed too much. It's that simple.

If you want to serve people food to your dog, it’s pretty easy to find lists of toxic foods for dogs, but what isn’t readily available is a list of generally healthy and safe foods. Here’s a starting point list of foods that I comfortably will and won’t feed to my own dogs:

Generally healthy and safe foods

Lean meat, fish and poultry, peanuts and unsweetened peanut butter, raw bones, offal (heart, liver, kidney, tongue, tripe), eggs, beans and lentils, apples, bananas, blueberries, saskatoon berries, cranberries, cherries, pineapple, dried fruits including dates, carrots, cabbage, spinach, green or yellow string beans, broccoli, ripe tomatoes, potatoes, yams, zucchini, beets, alfalfa sprouts, parsley, cod liver oil, salmon oil, canola oil, olive oil, flax or hemp seed, glucosomine, acidophilus, digestive enzymes, nutritional yeast, bone meal or egg shells, yogurt, kefir and cottage cheese.

Unhealthy and/or toxic foods

Ham, bacon or excessive poultry skin, macadamia nuts, walnuts, cooked bones, grapes, raisins and some currants including juices and trail mixes, rhubarb fruit and leaves, fruit seeds from apples, pears, plums, peaches and apricots, onions, garlic, avocado, green tomatoes and potatoes, potato peels, lumps of fat off meat, butter, corn, popped corn, yeast dough that’s rising, hops, xylitol, milk, nutmeg, caffeinated coffee and tea, salt, chocolate, cocoa powder and chocolate icings, alcoholic beverages, moldy foods and sugar.

I’m not a veterinarian or a small animal nutritionist so please consider this as one source of information. The pet food industry has done a very good job telling people that they’re incapable of feeding dogs. I don’t believe them. Read about the topic, talk with your vet and others in the pet care business, then make choices that are best for your dog. If you feed your dog something that doesn't increase their vitality or agree with them, check with your vet.

♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥ ♥

Recipe for home-made dog biscuits: Grain-free peanut butter chip drop cookies

2 cups black beans

1 cup peanut butter

2 eggs – include shells

½ cup dried fruit (16 apricots - NEVER use raisins)

Blend 1.5 cups of beans with the rest of the ingredients in a food processor.

Once fully blended, fold in ½ cup of black beans so they look like chocolate chips (NEVER use chocolate)

Drop by teaspoonful onto cookie sheets

Bake at 350’ for 15 minutes

If you want to eat these yourself as protein bars, omit the egg shells.
I prepare black beans in bulk by soaking, boiling, bagging and freezing them in advance.

Double dog dare you: getting a second dog

Nothing beats the pure bliss of watching two dogs romp and play together. They seem inseparable. Where one dog explores, the other follows. They curl up together on their comfy beds into tiny balls so you can’t tell where one starts and the other stops. When they come to visit us at our kennel, double dogs are always happy – and that makes sense because they’re always hanging around, playing with their best buddy.

In single-dog families, you are their universe. You are the source of everything – including being their 24/7 live entertainment. At times, that’s great, and at other times, especially when they’re puppies or adolescents, it would be nice if some of their extra puppy energy would be burned off elsewhere. Enter, the second dog. After you’ve exercised and trained your dog, you can chill and watch your dogs run, interact and play. They can burn off more energy together in a half hour than you could ever give them in several hours – unless you’re into agility or other dog sports of course.

However, there is a secret dark side to double dogs. In addition to the extra space they take (think about two danes), double the hair and poo to clean up, and doubling your cost for food and veterinary bills (especially if both get serious, expensive medical issues), as with people, there can be personality issues – and those issues can turn into aggression and management problems. The most difficult problems seem to be with female/female and big/small dogs. Females can wrestle for dominance, and what would normally be a small scuffle between size-matched dogs can easily become deadly when yorkie and retriever sized dogs get into it. Another thing to watch for is getting puppies from the same litter. They’re awesome and adorably cute, but they can bond more with each other than with you.

Some believe that the ideal way to get a second dog is to get one, train it and bond with it, then get your second dog later. Compatible dogs include picking male/male or male/female rather than two females, and sticking to similar sizes. Once you’ve got two dogs, spend solo time exercising, training and bonding with each dog. If you already have a big and small dog, watch their dynamics, and possibly separate them when you’re not there to supervise them.

Personally, I’m really big on double dogs. I love living with Daisy and Buddy. Every now and then they still get on each other’s nerves – usually over a really, really tasty treat – but knowing that helps me manage around it.

If you’re interested in this topic, here are a few more resources:

• Fully Vetted blog posting
  
• Creative Dog Training’s podcast about getting a second dog
• Whole Dog Journal article When Packmates Fight (Payment is required to access this article)